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Thread: Fiberglass Help

  1. #11

    Re: Fiberglass Help

    I don’t think there is any core in the hull sides Can’t tell if the second picture is the side or if it is the deck which indeed is cited

    I don’t think these dry patches weee caused by hurricane damage. My boat took out a piling during Irma, the hull deck joint and toe rail was ground open over 15 feet. Aft ER bulkhead wasn’t just loose but shifted in a couple of inches yet the hull side doesn’t show a single stress crack and no dry spot

    Personally I d leave it alone.
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  2. #12

    Re: Fiberglass Help

    Can you tell on the hull where the boat hit the piling? The first picture is just where the roving didn’t get fully wet out. The cabin damage is where the hull flexed and the plywood couldn’t move due to being fastened to the cleat on the bunk. I don’t know what year your boat is but I think Hatteras did use some core in the hull sides. The early ones were solid glass. All you can do is cut out the damaged wood, and grind out the old tabbing and replace the damaged material. Once you start grinding you can see where the delaminated parts are. Be careful who you turn loose in there with a grinder. They can damage more than you can imagine.

  3. #13

    Re: Fiberglass Help

    I did some checking on the wall. Was trying to figure out if there was a core. It seems to me that the top bunk area is fiberglass only but there may be a core lower in the hull where the bottom bunk is located. One thing I wanted to ask was is it normal for the fiberglass outer layers to feel tacky. I know the boat is hot since there is no ac, it just kinda seemed odd that the wall area felt tacky.

  4. #14

    Re: Fiberglass Help

    They make a finish resin and a laminating resin. The laminating resin remains tacky to help subsequent layers bond. I don’t know if it would remain tacky for years though. What was on the inside of the hull it that area? Was any contact cement sprayed on the inside of the hull for a hull liner material? I would take a small amount of mek or lacquer thinner and wipe a small area and see if it’s still sticky.

  5. #15

    Re: Fiberglass Help

    I have come across the same tacky inner side of my hull and deck laminates, especially in areas that are not normally accessed. Always assumed it was the layup resin.
    So far the only hull coring I have found on my 1983 61 CMY has been in transom.
    In various locations inside hull, plywood has been bonded directly to the fiberglass. In engine rooms this is with what appears to be an interface layer of skin out mat, which did have a lot of dry air voids in it. While other areas of hull it is some adhesive like 3M 5200. Not sure how much is structural to the hull, or just used to mount cable and pipe runs etc.
    Ray


    1983 61CY 319

    AnnaVal
    Jacksonville FL.


  6. #16

    Re: Fiberglass Help

    If it were me, I'd probably drill a couple of exploratory holes, 3/4" or so just to see what the core looked like (assuming there is a core?)

    If your guy is correct and just the coring separated/delaminated it's not really that big of a deal to fix. I'd cut the glass layer on the inside, pry it open, dig the core out, put new core in with thickened epoxy (so it bonds to the outside fiberglass layer) then re-glass the inside.

    If you drill and everything is solid, just epoxy over the holes and call it good.
    SOUTHPAWS
    1986 52C Hull #391 8v92TI
    PENSACOLA, FL

  7. #17

    Re: Fiberglass Help

    Thanks for the insight, the tacky ness may be from the wall covering. I think I will do some exploratory drill holes and see what’s what. The odd thing is the spot that seems “loose” is at the opisite end of the bunk from where the hull flexed and broke the closet wall. Also where the resin dry spot is. I wonder if one stripped all wall coverings inside a boat I think you would find multiple spots like this.

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