Awlwood finishing

[jim rosenthal]

Over the years I've owned my 36 convertible, we've removed most of the teak trim that the boat came with. If you look at the brochure photos, there was quite a bit of exterior teak on the aft bulkhead, mostly gone now. All the ladder treads were also teak, now replaced with stainless. What is left are the following items: the salon door surround, the trim on the window screen in the salon door, the aft bulk head window trim, and that vertical handhold set on the aft bulkhead, parallel to the salon door opening. All these were refinished several years ago, probably with Epiphanes- some done by me and some by a varnishing outfit here in Annapolis.

I've looked at the finishes now on the market and begun setting up to remove all the existing finish, much of which has opened up, and redo all the wood. I've decided to use Awlwood, with the red primer, and I wondered if anyone here has any experience using it. Evidently, when it's applied properly it looks very good and is very durable. Any first-hand experience?

[Walter P]

Jim, While I love the look of well cared for woodwork on a boat, the older I got the more I realized that
it belongs on the interior, away from the weather. That being said, a little bit of teak on the exterior of
our old boats looks very nice if it's maintained well. I've never used Awlwood so I can't comment on it
but I have used many other products and for me I like Bristol. It goes on well and can be multi coated
the same day for build up. After a week or so and about 6 coats I lightly sand it and apply the final
finish coat. After 4 or 5 years it still looks good with little or no maintenance.

Walt

[R D Young]

I've been using Awlwood for several years and am very pleased with it. Six or seven coats on top of the red primer on all exterior teak. It can go on very thick and is self leveling, so very little sanding needed. You can do two coats in one day without sanding, but if more than 24 hours between coats, light sanding is required. One light coat per year has worked for me, even in Caribbean sun all the time. Be sure to get AND read the data sheet.
My one complaint is that even with careful resealing of the can, the leftovers turn to rock - so don't buy more than you need.

[Pascal]

I ve been using it for 3 or 4 years now both inside and outside and really like it you can recoat in as quickly as 3 hours.

I ve always used the clear primer never the red

Easier to apply than Bristol which I ve used years ago and yes what’s left in an opened can will turn hard after a few months

[kelpy]

To prevent the formation of the surface skin, carefully pour about 1/2 capfull of T0201 reducer onto the surface of the remaining Awlwood and seal the can at the end of the day. Works with Awlspar too using T0016 reducer.

[jim rosenthal]

Thanks for all the replies. Awlwood it is. I am almost done wooding down the first item, that vertical grab bar next to the door. I have to get some more fingers for my Fein detail sander- Fawcett's is out of them. First coat this week with any luck.

[Texastailboard]

Does anyone have any pics of the awlwood finish? I have used every product, but so many change the natural color of the wood. I have heard so many good things about the awlwood product.

[R D Young]

Here's a photo of hand rail with 3 year old Awlwood over red primer. One layer re-coat last year. The gunwale threshold has not been re-coated. Lot's of foot traffic and a few guests who think their golf shoes give them better traction.
Awlwood Rail2.jpg

[jrbrein]

Jim,

I restored the dinette in my boat and finished the wood with 3 coats of Epifanes for depth and color than 6 coats of Awlwood clear finish. I agree with what has been said about Awlwood.

I had better results using clean, dust free foam brushes.

You can build up multiple coats using using Epifanes "Wood Finish" without having sand between coats. At Seven's advice, I warmed my Epifanes varnish for 45 seconds in the microwave and got excellent results.

Boats have dust, lots of dust. Spend time vacuuming and getting as much dust removed before you start your project.

While Awlwood is expensive and toxic to breath, you can at least sand it (3000 grit or higher) and buff it for a really polished finish. No matter how hard I tried, I still ended up with some sags and dust on some areas.

Jon

[q240z]

Over at Weaver Boatworks, they used to use DuPont MS1 on their teak toe rails and other exterior wood. But now they're reportedly using Awlwood for the first couple coats then topping it with...get ready for this...sprayed Awlcraft clear. Weaver boats regularly end up in tropical places, so they've got to use stuff that lasts. Word has it this new approach is better than MS1.