Someone, I know, has had this happen to them.
I am replacing my 20 watt 12 volt halogen bulbs with JC G4 12V-24V LED 4.5W 5730 LEDs. On a four or more fixture circuit, no problem. On each of (3) three fixture circuits, the LEDs give quick flash--that's it, no light. If I replace just one of the LEDs with one of the old halogen bulbs then everything lights up. Having recently replaced one of the 110v to 12 volt transformers, I know all three circuits are independent of each other and there are no breaker trips.
So what's up?
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Thread: Halogen to LED Issue
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Halogen to LED Issue
Semper Siesta
Robert Clarkson
ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
Charleston, SC
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05-24-2018 02:32 PM #2
Re: Halogen to LED Issue
Had something similar happen in my jeep when I replaced cabin lights with LED. There was not enough resistance in the new LED light bulb so the canbus would not recognize there was a bulb in there and simply would not supply power. Had to find an LED with more resistance, that solved the problem.
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Re: Halogen to LED Issue
CRICKET
1966 HAT50C101
Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
Repowered 2001 with 3406E
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Re: Halogen to LED Issue
Thanks guys, makes sense. The transformer I just replaced was 75 watts, so that's way more than 3 of these will pull. Since I posted, my hallway four light circuit quits after 3 or four mins, same symptoms. My VIP has three on a circuit and it's been working continuously for an hour, but with one halogen in place.
Everyday I learn something new. I'd like a day off now and again.Semper Siesta
Robert Clarkson
ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
Charleston, SC
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Re: Halogen to LED Issue
Did you replace the transformers with led drivers or regular wire wound transformers? Led are DC devices and should be run by a led driver that supplies DC voltage. LEDs are also polarity sensitive. Hook up wrong way and they don’t work. The dimming in also different on led. AC devices just control voltage. LED dimmers actually pulse (very fast) to dim. LED drivers will not care about minimum load. I know some led are rated for ac and dc voltage. I have found that running them on ac voltage shortened their life.
Thanks,
Tony
2008 Cheoy Lee Bravo 78 "Bella Sophia"
1989 78' Hatteras CPMY #311 "Bella Sophia" (sold)
2007 Everglades 290cc “Bada Bing” (sold)
2006 Advanced Outdoors 28cc (sold)
2003 Melges 24 "Bada Bing" (sold)
2023 HCB 42 “Bada Bing”
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05-24-2018 05:01 PM #6
Re: Halogen to LED Issue
These work great:
https://store.marinebeam.com/hattera...-dc-converter/1977 Hatteras 58' MY, Hull No. 304, 4-stateroom galley up model with 8V71TIs in Knoxville, Tennessee
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Re: Halogen to LED Issue
Thanks, as I mentioned my input is AC.
Semper Siesta
Robert Clarkson
ASLAN, 1983 55C #343
Charleston, SC
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Re: Halogen to LED Issue
Make sure the transformers are 120 AC to 12 DC. Some are 120 AC to 12 (or 24) AC and some LEDs will not work on AC.
Pascal
Miami, FL
1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
12' Westphal Cat boat
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05-24-2018 07:24 PM #9
Re: Halogen to LED Issue
I just pulled 2 120 volt to 24 volt a.c. transformers from a customers lighting circuits.
A.c. is not good for less. Also a 75 watt transformer should be fine if it's compatible with the led lights but seems that lnes not.
Cars have monitoring of dc circuits to report lamp issues so when changing to led lamps they many times see it as a blown incandescent.Scott
41C117 "Hattatude"
Port Canaveral
I have no idea what the last poster is saying. I don't think he does either.
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Re: Halogen to LED Issue
If you are working with raw LED chips or wafers then you need to calculate the proper power supply/driver which can be constant current or constant voltage. The basic point is to supply a regulated power supply to meet the needs of the LED chips but not burn them out, especially as they heat up and change resistance. I did this engineering work to make my own high output LED spreader light assemblies doing heat sink calculations, using Cree LED wafers and constant current drivers but I just happen to like this stuff. Most of you are probably not designing LED assemblies from scratch using raw components so this may never apply.
Next are integrated assemblies that can take a more common form of power as might be available in an existing socket so that the LED product is plug and play with 100 year old technology. One example are LED's that look like incandescent light bulbs with a std screw base for say a living room lamp. This product takes AC line voltage, rectifies it and supplies the correct regulated DC power to the basic LED elements/chips/wafers.
Then there are components like what we are talking about here. They are also most likely intended to replace an existing incandecent solution so they may be able to take AC power or may need DC power but are likely to have some elements on say the back of the wafers or boards that perform the regulation function. I can't find much on the LED "lights" being discussed here so I don't know what power source and range are acceptable but I suspect that it is an unregulated AC and/or DC voltage. What does the spec sheet say? Are there components on the back of the board or are these raw LED elements?
GeorgeLast edited by Reefgeorge; 05-25-2018 at 12:08 PM.
Florida
2002 Cabo 47
MAN mechanical 800/8's
"You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality"