I dont know if I will ever feel comfortable to sleep in the boat while at anchor, I am more of a marina kind of guy (especially the family), I guess you can never be over prepared for strong winds if that is what you wanna use the anchor for. I am sticking with good brand such as maxwell, and I tend to trust their weight ratings.
If it is too windy I probably wont go out boating.
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Thread: Windlass, which formula?
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04-21-2018 11:57 AM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2016
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- 239
Re: Windlass, which formula?
Gus....
Hatteras 53 MY, 1972
Boca Raton, FL
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Re: Windlass, which formula?
That set up is weird, definitely not standard hatteras installation
The hawsepipe should be set up so the chain feeds in the locker And it could be the pictures but it looks like there is no chain gipsy just a rope capstan
Anchoring with this must be a major pita
I don't see the need for two anchors on the pulpit, I much prefer an oversized single anchor which sets 100% of the time and doesn't drag even in a squall. You should have a second anchor as a back up with rose which can be stored elsewhere just in case you loose the primaryPascal
Miami, FL
1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
2007 Sandbarhopper 13
12' Westphal Cat boat
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Re: Windlass, which formula?
Well with that anchor I don't blame you . We probably spend an average of 60 Nights a year on the hook and I sleep very well. Never dragged even in the occasional 60kts squall. We just got back from 3 weeks in the Exumas and only docked 3 nights but the key is oversized anchor.
And in any case I always sleep with an anchor alarm on my phone or iPadPascal
Miami, FL
1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
2007 Sandbarhopper 13
12' Westphal Cat boat
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04-21-2018 12:17 PM #14Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2016
- Posts
- 239
Re: Windlass, which formula?
The current windlass is only 15 ft chain and then all rope. There is no Gypsy. It sits on a raised platform. I believe that removing this windlass is a major PITA and a royal one too. Even if I remove it which means taking out the cable master at least for installation, then to have a windlass there that feeds directly to the rode compartment is also very risky proposal.
That raised platform in not that far from the proximal end of the anchor itself, and also the clearance underneath that raised section is not that great to allow for the gravity to bring the rode back to the bottom of the compartment comfortably (a risky proposal).
Thats why I think I may wanna leave it alone and simply just add an anchor on the side of the deck more aft so that the rode would fall perpendicularly to its compartment.
I am trying to avoid major fiberglass /paint work and a hefty bill. Versus adding a second anchor, a roller, and a windlass would be at least half of the first proposal.Last edited by Gusshr; 04-21-2018 at 12:19 PM.
Gus....
Hatteras 53 MY, 1972
Boca Raton, FL
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04-21-2018 12:24 PM #15Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2016
- Posts
- 239
Re: Windlass, which formula?
Not much room as you can see.
Gus....
Hatteras 53 MY, 1972
Boca Raton, FL
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Re: Windlass, which formula?
Gus,
You could at least get rid of the swivel...they are more of a liability than an asset. That would at least give you a few inches.
I used to believe in swivels (and winning lottery tickets) but not anymore!
I have always kept a second anchor (Fortress) back at the stern in case I needed it for a fore and aft mooring like a Bahamian mooring in a narrow place with reversing current or I loose my forward anchor after the swivel broke! Agree with Pascal...don't like 2 anchors on the bow.
JonJonathan Brein
1982 43' DCFB #550
"Paragon"
Chesapeake, Virginia
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Re: Windlass, which formula?
Actually that swivel looks like a Kong swivel. They re very good.
Pascal
Miami, FL
1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
2007 Sandbarhopper 13
12' Westphal Cat boat