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  1. #1

    Windlass, which formula?

    Hi,

    I am torn between how two sources of how to size your windlass are so different.

    On one side windlass maximum pull size strength calculations of 3-4 times the total weight of the anchor and rode, and the other side is the charts that the manufacturers create.

    Here is the discrepancy: if i go by the books (including the westmarine website) which recommend to size the windlass to be 3 to 4 times the weight of the anchor, chain and rope all together. So having a 45 lb CQR with 60 ft 3/8 chain (60*1.4=84 lb) plus 300 ft rope (50lb)= 179 lb X 3- 4= 500 to 800 lb maximun pull, so getting a 1000lb should do it!!!

    However If you look at the windlass manufacturers websites, they recommend pullig windlass rating of over 2300lb for my 53 boat size.

    Why there is a huge discrepancy between doing the calculations and what the manufacturers recommend?

    With the proper use of the windlass, the weight of the boat including the wind factor has nothing to do with how strong the windlass is, because the chain or the rope would be tied to the cleat as the boat is anchored and the windlass Job is only to bring the total weight of the anchor, chain and rope up back to the boat. Freeing the anchor from the ground is the job of the motors of the boat while the chain/rope are tied to a cleat with the tip of the boat above the anchor.

    Help? Thanks
    Last edited by Gusshr; 04-20-2018 at 08:50 PM. Reason: ipad text format problem
    Gus....
    Hatteras 53 MY, 1972
    Boca Raton, FL

  2. #2

    Re: Windlass, which formula?

    You are very correct and onboard ocean going vessels (of any size) the hoisting capacity of an anchor windlass is calculated to be able to lift the anchor and 3 shackles (270 feet) of chain in vertical direction off the seabed.

    Often times people try to pull their boat towards the anchor and rip the anchor out of the mud using windlass and they eventually wreck it hence I believe makers recommending oversizing it.

    As you said rightly, once the boat is anchored, the chain is supposed to be secured to a cleat, a guillotine stopper or a snubber line and not against the windlass.When you want to leave, you use the engine to bring the bow vertically above the anchor and heave only the slack. The moment the windlass motor starts to labour (even a little bit) you should stop, secure the chain and if needed use engine to free the anchor off the seabed or bring the bow vertically above the anchor. The chain should ideally always be in "up-down" direction.

    People wanting the convenience of controlling the windlass from the flybridge and no clue in which direction the chain is leading or how much weight there is on the chain, are most likely to wreck their windlasses.
    M/V BONAZZA
    1980 Hatteras
    37 Convertible
    Hull# - 405
    Twin DD 6-71NA
    Vancouver, Canada

  3. #3

    Re: Windlass, which formula?

    So you vote that I should get a windlass that is just over the 3-4 times weight of the rode?
    Gus....
    Hatteras 53 MY, 1972
    Boca Raton, FL

  4. #4

    Re: Windlass, which formula?

    First of all good luck with a 45 lbs anchor on a 53... that's way too small

    In the real world, when it s blowing, will you really leave the helm to go cleat the rode to relieve pressure on the windlass by clearing the chain? Not that easy...

    Does anyone know the taring of the original galley maid windlases?
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  5. #5

    Re: Windlass, which formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pascal View Post
    First of all good luck with a 45 lbs anchor on a 53... that's way too small In the real world, when it s blowing, will you really leave the helm to go cleat the rode to relieve pressure on the windlass by clearing the chain? Not that easy...Does anyone know the taring of the original galley maid windlases?
    The ideal (pull up only) that came with the boat is a 1000w only! I believe maximum pull of 1000lbs. The CQR 45lb is properly rated for a 53 ft vessel.
    Gus....
    Hatteras 53 MY, 1972
    Boca Raton, FL

  6. #6

    Re: Windlass, which formula?

    Beware of published anchor ratings... if you dont anchor much it s fine but if you anchor out quite a bit a 45 pounder is way too small especially in soft mud. I ve seen too many boats with "rated" anchors dragging or having issue setting... once i get to the vround tackle after the repower is done on mine, i m replacing the 60 lbs davis (delta look alike) with a 110 Bruce. The drop and forget a out it kind of...

    Thanks for the info on the galley maid pull. I may keep mine with a dedicated 32v windlass bank instead of replacing with a 24v windlass.
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  7. #7

    Re: Windlass, which formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gusshr View Post
    So you vote that I should get a windlass that is just over the 3-4 times weight of the rode?
    Yes, in my books, that is more than enough with practices you are following which are correct. Some members however feel you should "bring your bow down" with significantly heavier anchor and more powerful windlass.
    M/V BONAZZA
    1980 Hatteras
    37 Convertible
    Hull# - 405
    Twin DD 6-71NA
    Vancouver, Canada

  8. #8

    Re: Windlass, which formula?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pascal View Post
    Beware of published anchor ratings... if you dont anchor much it s fine but if you anchor out quite a bit a 45 pounder is way too small especially in soft mud. I ve seen too many boats with "rated" anchors dragging or having issue setting... once i get to the vround tackle after the repower is done on mine, i m replacing the 60 lbs davis (delta look alike) with a 110 Bruce. The drop and forget a out it kind of...

    Thanks for the info on the galley maid pull. I may keep mine with a dedicated 32v windlass bank instead of replacing with a 24v windlass.
    Thanks for the opinion. Adding a second anchor is on my bucket list. Looking in the rode compartment, I see a huge Ideal (which works fine) tucked behind cable master blocking the way to the Windlass (pretty bad access). I am attaching pictures for my boat's tip. The starboard side of the rode compartment is for the rode and the port side is for the electric cable.

    Since my pulpit is for a single anchor, I am rethinking that I need to add the automatic windlass to fit to the through deck that exist now, install an anchor roller on the rail to the starboard of the current pulpit to hold the second anchor, and split the rode compartment so it would accommodate two rodes.

    What do you think?Attachment 25306
    Attached Images
    Gus....
    Hatteras 53 MY, 1972
    Boca Raton, FL

  9. #9

    Exclamation Re: Windlass, which formula?

    It is not my fault that pictures are rotated 90 degrees!!!
    Gus....
    Hatteras 53 MY, 1972
    Boca Raton, FL

  10. #10

    Re: Windlass, which formula?

    Here you go.
    Attached Images
    Gus....
    Hatteras 53 MY, 1972
    Boca Raton, FL

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