55C Bridge seat drain

[Briankinley2004]

Then I'm betting the under seat is backing up into the console where it can get over to the chases.

Mine doesn't drain thru console. It runs straight down into the flybridge deck. Its at the 90 degree bend in the seat on the port side. Its a copper tube and goes straight down into the deck. Not sure where it turns but it doesn't come through salon ceiling obviously. It has to make a bend somewhere. If I find it to be the source of leak I will probably cut it off in the seating area and re route

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Mine doesn't drain thru console. It runs straight down into the flybridge deck. Its at the 90 degree bend in the seat on the port side. Its a copper tube and goes straight down into the deck. Not sure where it turns but it doesn't come through salon ceiling obviously. It has to make a bend somewhere. If I find it to be the source of leak I will probably cut it off in the seating area and re route

Im saying it found another path possibly.

[Tim Powell]

I am not blessed with a 55c but a 52c. Here is my thinking,,,,,

If you have excess to air pressure put a few inch plastic pipe on the hose that will fit in the holes under the
the seat and at the floor level there should be several drains at floor level. Also several under the seats.
(bridge seats). I find with water everything gets wet and can not trace. I think you will find that the floor drains are necked and should not be.
water just dumps under the bridge. On mine there was evidence of drain hose attached. They were gone....
If my memory serves me correctly. There was about 3 to 4 lines that connected to one and dumped to the
as stated before out just above the overhang.
keeping this in mime there should be no water in the chase. Going back to the issue. Water over head
if water is running wild as one would say it will go in the chase and follow the wires control cables and steering hoses...

Now if this is dry.... First start looking at windows leaking which will allow water to get to the engine room usually is a good
starting point. This is done with water not air. Take the sprayer off just use hose and start at lowest point with someone in the engine room
to hollow at the first sign of water.

Outriggers bolted to the side will also allow water to enter the outside wall and wind up in the engine room corking brakes down. Fuel filler will so the same
if the corking has broke down. All things bolted to the gunnel on the gunnel rise....

START AT THE TOP AND WORK DOWN. Meaning bridge first. Reminder do not overlook helm chairs or around the glued down bridge seats where the meet floor
as well as console is connected to bridge floor.

No water should be on bridge floor at all under seats or console it will work its way to the chase STOP IT FIRST......

Tim

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Tim,that’s pretty good advice. I went in the direction I went when air pressure failed to make a difference. Likely it branched off and never made pressure where it was needed. I’ve run it both ways. So, I just let it head where it wanted, but kept it in a well defined channel.

[Briankinley2004]

I was also thinking along the lines of air today. We have alot of cypress leaves that collect everywhere and I am thinking maybe they have the line clogged and it is leaking. I also thought about possibly the tuna tower throttle/shift cables but they connect to the bridge and it was dry all under the helm. I dont think its the seats because the wood under mine was partially rotten and I just epoxied it along with sealing all bolts with 4200. Will also check the outriggers. I felt under the railing for the bridge but there were no holes except the bolt holes. I will try sealing them. This thread reminds me of a service call I made once to a dollar store. I sent my men on the roof to repair a leak. We fixed the obvious and it still leaked. I accused them of not looking close enough and caulked some stuff my self. It still leaked. The customer was getting testy. I finally caulked every screw on that side of the roof with NP-1 weather it needed it or not and it fixed the issue. Water can be very elusive

[Tim Powell]

Tim,that’s pretty good advice. I went in the direction I went when air pressure failed to make a difference. Likely it branched off and never made pressure where it was needed. I’ve run it both ways. So, I just let it head where it wanted, but kept it in a well defined channel.

DO NOT FORGET THE LEADER WIRE WITH A 180 DEGREE BEND IN THE END IT WILL SURPRISE YOU ( NOT BIG STUFF... ) the bend will make kinda smooth end to make turns.

Most of the water was coming when i washed the boat. The water was seeping between where the seat was connected to the floor & where the console was connected to the bridge floor. I took all the screws out and blade under it with a limber putty knife. Lifted it up put a bead of corking down and re screwed it. That stopped a lot. I found it buy shooting air from the inside out. Small amount of water would come out where the corking was broke down. Replacing the drain lines cured the rest.
they were all full of junk a lot of mold build up up. Unstopping them was a chore till i found tilex mold and mildew remover. The best stuff since ky jelly. With out a doubt...I sprayed it in the lines and put air to it. BROKE THE STUFF UP TOOK A COUPLE OF TRIES.. Along with leader wire..probing in and out...


If you have a refrigerator on the bridge check the condensing line. That line goes to the water line down the chase kinda doubt that the culprit but could be part of it if stopped up....that line may be seporte on yours but could T into the line of the freezer in the cockpit....

WHEN I SAY AIR I DO NOT MEAN 50 PSI MORE LIKE 15 TO 20 PSI DIRECTED TO A DIRECT POINT. I USED A AIR NOZZLE DESIGN TO DIRECT AIR. WITH TRIGGER...

[Tim Powell]

mine doesn't drain thru console. It runs straight down into the flybridge deck. Its at the 90 degree bend in the seat on the port side. Its a copper tube and goes straight down into the deck. Not sure where it turns but it doesn't come through salon ceiling obviously. It has to make a bend somewhere. If i find it to be the source of leak i will probably cut it off in the seating area and re route

use leader wire not heavy light stuff put a 180 degree bend in the end helps go around corners and not get stuck....

There is a chase where the stearing and wires go down that will go to the engine room. If the seats or console are leaking
water it will go directley to that area and follow the wires and stearing to the engine room.
where is your power box in the boat. Open it up and look is there water behind it ? You have to look behind the box. Not just in it. lot of juice in there be careful

Go in the through the consol and look to the rear where the cables go down. I bet you will see debree that has kinda washed in the corner.. On mine the chase is so easy for water
to get in that chase...Only two ways to get to the engine room that chase or leaking fittings between there and the place you seeing the water....my money on the seating or the floor drains leaking. Or stoped up...or rotten out

seeing your post i have see some come out on the bridge just under the out side bridge hang over. Try air and listen you will hear it blowing somewhere unless it is stoped up. Then you found your answer...

[Briankinley2004]

I have some Malin wire. I will try that too just to see where it goes

[Briankinley2004]

Ok finally got down here and did some further looking. Appears the copper line that "goes through the bridge deck" actually is stopped up and doesn't do this. There is a fiberglass tube that the deck drain on the inside corner of the seat runs into. it looked like the deck but with a light I see it is raised and the copper must drop into it. It discharges into the hollow "wall" between the console and exterior. Then appears to run open across bridge floor to a hole aft of the bridge on port side of door as described. This hole was stopped up but I also found that the boot around the wires was canvas or something like a fire hose. It appeared to be worn and poorly caulked. I am thinking the water is running through a defect in the boot. The actual boot is 3-4" above the deck. I plan to clean it all with acetone and try to caulk with NP-1 or 4200. I will let y'all know what happens

[Briankinley2004]

Pulled up a hunk of old caulk and found a hole big enough to stick my fingers in yesterday. Nothing to support any caulk. I suppose the coring was rotted out. I sprayed the high density locktite foam in the void to fill it as a caulk backer. It appears to be closed cell and dense enough to do the job but I know foam and water dont mix. I cut it flush with deck built up 4200 over the foam after cleaning with acetone. The only concern is I couldn't see anything even with a lighted mirror. All work was done by feel and thats not good when it comes to water. If this doesn't work I am going to figure out how to attache something to the drain tube end and route it outside the cavity. This is a mess.