Winterizing

[Avenger]

Now we're getting into different temp ratings? I thought we were talking about the same rating, one suitable for engines, one not. I wouldn't put a 10° rating into anything either. It hit 0° here a couple of years ago. It could do it again, global warming notwithstanding.

[34Hatt]

we probably could get away with out using antifreeze but no way of knowing if there are pockets of water that haven’t drained. I have vertical lift mufflers and underwater exhaust, and both vertical and horizontal surge tubes. I run 15 gls through each engines and 3 for each generator. Cheap insurance and peace of mind through the winter. As for the antifreeze slushing up or freezing, keep in mind you need kinetic energy for it to freeze. Shake the jug on a cold day and see what happens.

I have half a bottle left just did the power washer last weekend as I always use it for that also.
I will give it a shake but don't expect me to shake the boat that I will not try

I don't see were 10 degrees came into the post but the stuff I use is rated for -50 so can't see were it would freeze at 0 never seen it before.

[bobk]

You guys really make me glad I moved to Florida 12 years ago.

Bobk

[jrbrein]

Regarding the potable water tank, hot and cold water lines on the boat.

I would like to just drain the hot water heater, the water tank and use my air compressor to blow air through each line by opening each fixture one at a time. I would do this in place of running antifreeze throughout my drinking water system (except the hot water tank!). Opinions please.

As far as the engines, like Walt said, I use 50:50 Detroit Power cool. I also have block heaters since I use my boat throughout the winter here in the southern Chesapeake. I am on this boat almost every day doing something!

Jon

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Regarding the potable water tank, hot and cold water lines on the boat.

I would like to just drain the hot water heater, the water tank and use my air compressor to blow air through each line by opening each fixture one at a time. I would do this in place of running antifreeze throughout my drinking water system (except the hot water tank!). Opinions please.

As far as the engines, like Walt said, I use 50:50 Detroit Power cool. I also have block heaters since I use my boat throughout the winter here in the southern Chesapeake. I am on this boat almost every day doing something!

Jon

Jon, you might be surprised when you drain your water heater. It'd be a good idea to flush it until the sludge in the bottom comes out pretty clear (and then once yearly thereafter). I don't know where your water heater is located. But if it's in an engine room and you use block heat you will be OK. I'd say the same for you water tank and internal lines if you leave some sort of minimal heat on or even just a fan. My worry, even in South Carolina, would be the exposed dock water lines and connections. I broke the dock water line before the filter and put in a T with a drain valve and hose to an ER sump.

Ditto the PowerCool. Funny thing. WW Williams in Columbia (near where I live) only stocks the concentrate and WW Williams in Charleston only stocks the premix. It's really a challenge to get 8-6 gallon cases (2 motors X 23 gals each) in a coupe.

[jrbrein]

Thanks Robert,

Your advice about the water heater is especially true with house hot water heaters. It is amazing how much sludge builds up in these things without the Mg++ anodes in them!

Jon

[jim rosenthal]

I have done the drain and blow out with compressed air routine now for a few years. But the first time I did it, a line froze and burst. I found out that you need a BIG air compressor to push enough volume and pressure through the lines that there is no standing water in low spots.

[jrbrein]

Jim,

I think you may have just answered my question. It might be easier to just run the -100 degree antifreeze through the water lines like I did last year. I got it at West Marine last year...not cheap but it is the safest thing I know of for potable water lines.

Jon

[bobk]

Regarding the potable water tank, hot and cold water lines on the boat.

I would like to just drain the hot water heater, the water tank and use my air compressor to blow air through each line by opening each fixture one at a time. I would do this in place of running antifreeze throughout my drinking water system (except the hot water tank!). Opinions please.

As far as the engines, like Walt said, I use 50:50 Detroit Power cool. I also have block heaters since I use my boat throughout the winter here in the southern Chesapeake. I am on this boat almost every day doing something!

Jon

Use an oil-less compressor or a wet vac.

Bobk

[Boatsb]

Good catch Bob.


Unless you have a good filter on your airline use an oiless compressor.

Also push as much air as possible as long as possible to force the water out and not allow it to settle anywhere.

The ease of clearing the lines of air compared to pink stuff makes it worth while.

I used to wrap the through hulls with heat tape, blow out all the fresh water lines and push as much out of the exhaust system as possible before putting a few gallons of pink or methanol in.

I kept heaters on in the cabin if it dropped below 40 and the same thermostat turned on heatlamps in the ER.

In the event of a power outage I was prepares to open the seacocks and fire up the engines to heat them up once a day.

I also lived in the house next to the boat so I had no issue getting there and it stayed in the water and ran 12 months a year.

I did new Years champagne cruises with family and friends, Fished until December made it uncomfortable and was running agin regularly late Feb or early march on long Island.

I was a bit younger then though.