It certainly works cheap!
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Thread: Winterizing
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Re: Winterizing
--- The poster formerly known as Scrod ---
I want to live in Theory, everything works there.
1970 36C375
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Re: Winterizing
Last edited by 34Hatt; 12-01-2017 at 09:25 PM.
Dan
End Of The Line II
1967 34C
EOTL II Rebuild Web Page
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12-01-2017 11:21 PM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2005
- Posts
- 2,771
Re: Winterizing
Well I sometime buy my "Pink stuff" at West Marine (sorry guys) and I know I can usually beat the price
but the stuff is so cheap that it's not worth going out of my way for it. They sell both and I too was
curious as to why the cheaper pink was not suitable and it led me to the conclusion about the inhibitors
being the only difference. If you check out with the mfg they claim that prolonged presence in the raw
water cooling system can cause issues. Are they correct? or is it just a way to get a couple of extra
bucks out of an unsuspecting poor boat owner? Who knows but I prefer to err on the side of caution,
especially when the well being of my engines are at stake. I agree that raw sea water doesn't contain
any corrosion inhibitors either....but this subject is only one of the many reasons that I value this forum.
Walt
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Re: Winterizing
Walt is correct. There are different pink antifreeze. The cheap stuff is alcohol based and while it does offer the same bust protection, it will freeze solid but not expand at around 20. There also are no rust inhibitors but o don’t think that’s much of an issue for a short layup period. The engine stuff is glycol based and will slush up but not freeze and does have rust inhibitors. I’ve been told the alcohol stuff isn’t great for seals but if it’s fine in the fresh water system it should be fine in the engine. I used 60 gallons yesterday and if it cost me an extra $2-$3 per gallon that’s ok with me. That new stuff looks different and has a strong alcohol smell
Jack Sardina
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12-04-2017 09:49 AM #15
Re: Winterizing
I used to use the methanol based anti freeze for years. Blue eyes and stained if you spilled some.
It would ignite too and set off a halon system once when someone left the drains open on exhaust manifolds.
Finding miss winter. Not having to do all that is a pleasure.
Now if i can get my boat out this month and enjoy it I'll feel better.Scott
41C117 "Hattatude"
Port Canaveral Florida.
Marine Electronics and Electrical Products Distributor.
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12-04-2017 12:42 PM #16Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Posts
- 4,974
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Re: Winterizing
Why worry about it sitting in the heat exchanger I know on mine after sucking it through when I pull my zinc out I get about 3 oz of pink out it all drains down. I basically do it so the I protect the mufflers.
Dan
End Of The Line II
1967 34C
EOTL II Rebuild Web Page
><(((º>´¯`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸><((((º>`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸><(( (( º>¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸¸><(((º>
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12-04-2017 04:38 PM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2005
- Posts
- 2,771
Re: Winterizing
So Dan, are you saying that the raw water drains out of the engines when you shut down? Do you need
to cause a "venting" action by removing a zinc or perhaps just removing the pressure cap off the heat
exchanger? If that's the case then if I store my boat in the water I may not need to bother with the
pink at all. What am I missing.
BTW, in my previous posts I mention 2 different "pinks". Both are for the raw water and or potable water
system. Neither are for the fresh water side. For that I keep DD Power Cool in it.
Walt
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12-04-2017 06:20 PM #19Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
- Posts
- 2,003
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Re: Winterizing
Seems like this has gone off the rails.
Walt, what brand of A/F are you using? I'm curious where they say it could be a problem on the raw water side.--- The poster formerly known as Scrod ---
I want to live in Theory, everything works there.
1970 36C375