53 MY Repower, started!

[Scarlett]

Love the old E’s had a 64 XKE for a while in high school. The guy down the street gave it to me after he bought a new one. He wanted me to work on that great Lucas electrical system and get it in shape so he could sell it. Lots of fun to drive. I know this guy that has a Jaguar dealer ship and I surveyed his Viking 63 motor yacht. It was called Sea Type, get it. John

[Pascal]

Love the old E’s had a 64 XKE for a while in high school. The guy down the street gave it to me after he bought a new one. He wanted me to work on that great Lucas electrical system and get it in shape so he could sell it. Lots of fun to drive. I know this guy that has a Jaguar dealer ship and I surveyed his Viking 63 motor yacht. It was called Sea Type, get it. John

Terry... he is the leading expert on C-types and D-types... he doesn't had a dealership but runs one of the top C or D-type restoration shops in the world. I ve know him for years. I helped him move the Viking from Tampa to the abacos a few years ago before he shipped it to the west coast

[Scarlett]

That’s him, he has the Viking for sale. John

[bigbill]

Pascal, why put plywood in the stringers when there are much better non rotting options? spending the amount of money that you are i would make sure it lasted for a lifetime

[Pascal]

That was my first reaction when we discussed it but the filling in the stringers isn't critical as originally it s all foam. The loads are carried by the glass,not the inside.

Plus they will Be sealed anyway so water won't get in. Marine ply is fine in this case.

[Boatsb]

No they will not be completely sealed. And there's the patching where the top will be weaker than originally. Adding some horse power will test the stringers.


Best way to do it is fill with coosa or another closed cell product piped in with resin and some fiber. Over the top add a steel (yes steel) bar with tapped holes for the stringer caps.

Then when it's sealed over and glassed it will become solid and will secure the stringer caps properly.

[Cricket]

When we did the CAT repower we added 1/2" steel to the top of the stringers bulkhead to bulkhead and then glassed over the steel, lots of glass. We then tapped the holes for the isolator mounts, no aluminum cap, came out really well. Not a big fan of plywood, would rather use mahogany, or also agree this is a perfect application for the dense (26lb?) Coosa board.
Are they doing the glass work with polyester or epoxy?
Btw, enjoying the photos and process, great project.

[Boatsb]

When we did the CAT repower we added 1/2" steel to the top of the stringers bulkhead to bulkhead and then glassed over the steel, lots of glass. We then tapped the holes for the isolator mounts, no aluminum cap, came out really well. Not a big fan of plywood, would rather use mahogany, or also agree this is a perfect application for the dense (26lb?) Coosa board.
Are they doing the glass work with polyester or epoxy?
Btw, enjoying the photos and process, great project.

I'd like to see the pics of the steel. I've replaced a few stringers in boats and have never tried steel on the top. Only inside the lamination.

[jim rosenthal]

Pascal, is that the bonnet from your car? Because it has the covered headlights, which is a Series 1 thing. Just curious.

[q240z]

Both the boat and the Jag are looking great! You'll never have a problem with the marine ply. But I tend to agree that if you're threading the top plate, steel would be a better choice than aluminum. On my aluminum Roamer, the stringers are aluminum plate topped with 3/8" angle. The engine vibration isolators are thru-bolted. But I suppose if the engineers have worked it out for threaded aluminum...go for it!

On the Jag, my personal fave is the Series 1 with the enclosed headlights. Is the '72 the year they started rubber bumpers?