53 MY Repower, started!

[dsharp]

I would put a jack under the center of the transom and put a little pressure on it and see what happens. If it helps then you know the hull is sagging

[GaryNW]

with regard to the apparent strut misalignment, I echo the thoughts of several others here. I focus on the fact that all of the structural work regarding stringers and hull reinforcement for stabs has occured fwd of the shafting. this misalignment is due to hull flex as a rersult of the haulout/bllocking itself. I wouild not mess with the struts at all. Assuming the new shafts can be installed without undo force, install them and launch. let the hull reshape itself in the water. Then start rotating the shafts to see if they free up in a few days.
I don't use divers much.I would rotate at the coupling, using a torque wrench if I am feeling anal. The struts are where they belong- don't let the yard relocate them!
Gary

[Pascal]

They re going to lift and reblock probably next week. The fact that the first sturts and shaft logs are lined up tells me the stringers aren't an issue as the flexing is aft. One possible cause is that the rear of the boat overhangs because the keel stops way before the transom. And we had weight sitting there on the aft deck with support beams going down the atringers in the master. First each DD coming out for a day or so waiting for the crane then each Cummins coming in.

The mechanic doesn't want to touch the struts. If the lifting and blocking doesn't help we may close the shaft logs, put the boat in water for a day or two, reblock and check.

[piripucha]

If I understand correctly, the DD are still in the boat ? if they are not on the ER you may have a weight issue that may have temporaly changed the shape of the hull.Those engines are heavy ! So wait until the new engine are in place and probably you may be able to turn the shafts with out effort.

[34Hatt]

First each DD coming out for a day or so waiting for the crane then each Cummins coming in.

The mechanic doesn't want to touch the struts. If the lifting and blocking doesn't help we may close the shaft logs, put the boat in water for a day or two, reblock and check.

They sat there for a day or so have been off the boat for weeks now.
New motors have been in since the beginning of Feb.

[GaryNW]

Pascal, I have been meaning to ask... You mentioned the elimination of many thru-hulls. How does the yard do the hole repair? Like taper grind inside and out, then duplicate original lay-up perhaps with epoxy resin? Or maybe prefabbed fiberglass plugs and then added layup? Or something else? I know aerospace in these situations, but not boat practice. In aerospace, the original lay-up and coring is duplicated-vacume bagging, heat, etc to restore original strenth. A lot of carefull and large taper grinding involved. I have wondered why simple bronze blank plugs do not seem to be available for our boats.
Gary

[Boatsb]

The correct way to patch per the coastguard for inspected vessels is a 12:1 taper from both sides. Starting with small and going up in size until filled with epoxy and structural glass material. Mat is not structural and not to be used wuth epoxy as mat has a binder that's styrene soluble and epoxy has no styrene.

On the outside a Patch can be faired but inside should be a layer or 2 proud.

I usually do 2 layups. Inside first then grind and layup the outside just proud so it can be ground fair.

Steel rollers are a must for removing all the air. Slow cure times (no fast cure or 5 minute epoxy) or adhesion issues will occur.

[Pascal]

Projects is dragging on a little longer than I wanted but we re gone in the Exumas for the last 6 weeks with just a few days here in the middle... getting close though

New trim tabs installed, exhaust risers all done, new fuel plumbing and oil change pump done, engine harnesses and control cables being done today

Still left before splashing: instal the shafts, brackets to supports the risers, engine batteries, reinstall one of the two chillers... I ended up having the prop shop adjust the pitch on my spare wheels. Then depending on sea trial results once we re sure of the pitch needed I may order a new set.

They re rolling epoxy on the bottom and barrier coating then bottom paint next week. Hoping to splash in two weeks

Alignment issue has been solved. We plugged all the holes, launched the boat and let her sit for two days. They marked some reference lines on each side of the hull to ensure blocking would be right. Then they moved the aft struts back a little. All lined up now. The alignment must have been wrong for a long time but since I ever run the boat over 1300 it probably didn't show. I also wonder if the old two piece shafts weren't more forgiving

[Pascal]

Also have both helm pumps and the ram reinstalled. I had sent them to Southern Charm near Tampa to get rebuild 1 week turn around, about $900 altogether

[SKYCHENEY]

I bet you can't wait to try her out. Video would be great (of the boat and the smile on your face).