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  1. #141

    Re: 53 MY Repower, started!

    Pascal, I wouldn't do anything until the boat is ready and launched. Let it sit in the water for a few
    days and dive under and try to turn the props. If they are very hard to turn you may have an issue
    but if they spin easy your alignment is probably OK. Next would be to connect the coupling using the
    standard procedure with a feeler gauge. I'm sure there are many other opinions on how to do the job
    but that is what was done on one of my 43DC years ago and it worked well. The boat ran very smooth
    with no vibration and each time the boat was hauled the cutlass bearings were checked for wear caused
    by misalignment. After several years they were still good.

    Walt

  2. #142

    Re: 53 MY Repower, started!



    Well see.
    Scott
    41C117 "Hattatude"
    Port Canaveral Florida.


    Marine Electronics and Electrical Products Distributor.

  3. Re: 53 MY Repower, started!

    Thats going to be a job getting the shaft back in there.

    The best (only) course of action at this point is to listen to the guy doing the work and follow his lead.

  4. #144

    Re: 53 MY Repower, started!

    The ER is looking great!

    On the shaft alignment issue, what about having the yard lift the boat and reblock it? Then again, with plenty of boat stands around the chine, it seems odd that the hull would banana even if the center block was a bit high.

  5. #145

    Re: 53 MY Repower, started!

    The guy doing the work is one ofthese older no non sense very experienced guy. He was recommened by the cummins dealer and i have used him for years on various projects on the boats i ve run. I trust his advice and decision.

    The stands dont bear a lot of weight compared to the keel blocks. I wasnt there when they blocked the boat. Lowering the stringers isnt enoug to cause problems, there is still plenty left! If anything the low floors aft of the engine room and resulting short sgringers are probably why there is flexing which again is common and the reason why alignment is finished in the water
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  6. #146

    Re: 53 MY Repower, started!

    Think I would have them lift the boat sooner than later so it can return to the correct shape.
    Here's something you may want to look at while you're in the middle of all this. We pulled a few strut bolts to see if the holes had enlarged over the years after a friend discovered this on a 53c. Sure enough most of them had become egg shaped, fixed 2 bolts at a time as we didn't want to take everything apart and start over.
    Btw, more pictures please.
    CRICKET
    1966 HAT50C101
    Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
    Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
    Repowered 2001 with 3406E

  7. #147

    Re: 53 MY Repower, started!

    Several years ago, I pulled my props and stub shafts and put in 6 new cutlass bearings. The alignment was the same on the hard as in the water. The props turned freely by hand with brand new cutlass bearings both before and after launch. This is the same hull so I would think it has to be the way it was blocked and/or the cutting of the stringers that is the issue. I would reblock it first and see it improves.
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

  8. #148

    Re: 53 MY Repower, started!

    80% of the weight is on the center blocks. If the hull flexed even 1/4 inch in the engine area it's going to be a big issue.

    I have replaced stringers in boats before and the biggest challenge is getting the boat in the right shape.

    I used lots of keel blocks and spread the weight evenly by adding 1/4 plywood to the blocks until it was equally weighted. The side stands and some on the belly held it in shape while I ripped out the rotted wood and replaced with foam and glass.

    Look at the cribbing plans if you don't know what it should be like.

    I'd lift the boat with 4 or more straps and start blocking the keel and belly right. A small flex will be a major issue if the boat twists in a sea.
    Scott
    41C117 "Hattatude"
    Port Canaveral Florida.


    Marine Electronics and Electrical Products Distributor.

  9. #149

    Re: 53 MY Repower, started!

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatsb View Post
    80% of the weight is on the center blocks. If the hull flexed even 1/4 inch in the engine area it's going to be a big issue.

    I have replaced stringers in boats before and the biggest challenge is getting the boat in the right shape.

    I used lots of keel blocks and spread the weight evenly by adding 1/4 plywood to the blocks until it was equally weighted. The side stands and some on the belly held it in shape while I ripped out the rotted wood and replaced with foam and glass.

    Look at the cribbing plans if you don't know what it should be like.

    I'd lift the boat with 4 or more straps and start blocking the keel and belly right. A small flex will be a major issue if the boat twists in a sea.


    Good points. My yard always shims every block under the keel. Of course, up here, we are sitting on the hard for months at time so its pretty important to do it right. My friend had the keel messed up on his Pacemaker from a poor blocking job.
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

  10. #150

    Re: 53 MY Repower, started!

    Quote Originally Posted by SEVEN View Post
    We all must be the same age 66. I’m having a hell of a time dropping down and getting up. Damn.
    Dropping down is easy. It's the getting back up that's difficult.

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