1964 Hatt Yacht-Fish 41 - Joining the club

[jrbrein]

Scott,

If it is not possible moving the electric panel elsewhere, I have found a spray coating of Boshield on all of the electrical connections great for moisture and corrosion protection. My boat has junction and terminal blocks all over the place!

Good observation!!


Jon

[nabstar]

Great point. I'll take a look at the location of the vents to see if moisture is a concern.

[krush]

The windows leak and the vents for the er pull a lot of wet air and most through that area. I'd not leave it exposed to the elements.

Some people have boats with windows that don't leak! lol.

Vents should be done right so no air enters salon or behind the "wall". I have no signs of water or corrosion on anything back there. And my electrical panel is in same area.

[34Hatt]

I too have my panel in same spot also hinges out for ease. I have the air to bilge boxed off the right way doesn't everyone

[nabstar]

To answer the question about paint on the portholes, I used AwlGrip epoxy primer with an AwlGrip paint over the top ..... multiple coats of each.
Onto the hull. All bottom paint has been sanded off. And every ding, nick or chip has been repaired and filled. The pre-coating of the hull has finished but no bottom paint has been applied. Next, we'll be sanding above the waterline. Scaffolding is being erected as we speak.

PS - I tried to attach images as before but they were oriented upside down for some reason. Couldn't find a way to rotate the images.

[Boatsb]

Mine has a vent into that area and holes in the floor for air to the ER. It's a damp area down in there from the vents and it gets it's share of splash too on rough days.

[krush]

Mine has a vent into that area and holes in the floor for air to the ER. It's a damp area down in there from the vents and it gets it's share of splash too on rough days.

See my picture above...fix it and do it right!

[Boatsb]

Mine is original and has no electrical in the area.

I'm not going to replumb the air intakes if there is nothing wrong with it.

[Pete]

I never owned a 60's version of a 41, but did own a 44TC that positioned the electric panel in the same general location. BTW, the engine room vents opened behind the salon paneling and then had screened holes open to the engine room in the sole. Not good.

But, I direct your attention to Krush's photo of his new panel, which like the original has a 12 volt house source selection switch that offers a "BOTH" position. The picture shows selecting battery bank 1 as best I can see which is a correct selection as is bank 2 standalone. It is the selection of "BOTH" that creates a real problem. Doing so provides the same connection as provided by "parallel start switch" potentially drawing starting current through seriously undersized wire, at least on the Hatteras original installation, which was a #6 on my 44TC. This is nothing short of a fire hazard if the engines do not immediate start.

Bottom line, do not try to tie your 12 volt battery banks together with anything less 0000 cable.

Pete

[spartonboat1]

Well, after review of the various posts in this thread by the owner, I hereby give this highest award for quality and orthoroughness of any rehab of a boat, esp. a vintage Hatt, that I have seen on the web. It must be in the top 5 or 10 ever, setting aside the multiple $100 thousand rehabs by professionals, such as Tom Slane. Very impressive!