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  1. #21

    Re: replacing the floor

    If it's me I would seal the edges and bottom on the new hatches with epoxy and also paint them before covering the tops so they're nice and pretty and also remain stable. Might even seal the tops too depending on how the new stuff gets put down.
    CRICKET
    1966 HAT50C101
    Purchased 1985 12v71Ns
    Repowered 1989 with 8v92TI
    Repowered 2001 with 3406E

  2. #22

    Re: replacing the floor

    Where are the pictures?

    And isn't it technically called a "sole"? Gotta keep the yacht snobs satisfied and use proper terminology.
    FTFD... i drive a slow 1968 41c381

  3. #23

    Re: replacing the floor

    Sole...... hmmmm. When I think of that word, I think of either Sam & Dave or James Brown. Maybe you mean what you walk on in a sailboat?

    We will paint the edges. Or use epoxy. Either way, they should be sealed.

    Got a call from the fellow who's in charge of all this- fortunately, the plywood is screwed- but not glued- to the hatch frames. Finding the screws isn't always easy, but they are coming apart and the new wood will go on in the next day or so. Then we have to fit the new ones in, and pattern for the Lonseal that goes on top of them. In the head, I think we can lay the Lonseal over what's already there.

  4. #24

    Re: replacing the floor

    Progress (and yes, photos taken) Plywood tops for hatches cut and fitted- today they will get final trim cuts and screwed down to the hatch frames. Next is patterning the hatches for the vinyl flooring. I suspect I may spend some of the weekend pulling the old carpet staples out and measuring for teak trim- there are a lot of staples that did not come out with the carpet removal.

    Overall, lots of progress and going well so far.

  5. #25

    Re: replacing the floor

    The original carpet (light blue shag, if anyone's interested, is what came from the factory in 1071. Probably looked great- in 1971) was installed with steel staples, which after all these years have mostly disintegrated. Sadly, they have not completely disintegrated, so I am trying to pull out what's left of them, and not having very good luck. A few come out. Most don't. I am starting to think that just using an underlayment would be a lot easier and better. I have to run this past the installer when I can get him on the phone. Meanwhile, the hatches are in and look and feel fine. I'll try to post photos today.

  6. #26

    Re: replacing the floor

    What won't come out gets hammered in. Be careful of your hands and knees. They can get ripped up easily with those damn staples.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  7. #27

    Re: replacing the floor

    Quote Originally Posted by dottieshusband View Post
    Putting this down now. 12 mm with 1 mm teal and maple veneer. The edging and joints are all solid stock teak.
    Looks absolutely beautiful! Glad the Admiral isn't looking at these pics! But now you got my interest in replacing my carpet!
    James
    53' MY "No Regrets"
    I.O.P, S.C.




  8. #28

    Re: replacing the floor

    hi Jim
    i was reading your story about your floors and we also want redo all our floors on the boat....i just ordered some samples from Lonseal can't wait to get them ....i didn't see a price do you have any information on the cost of the product...
    Joe
    1981 56' MY
    Lake Gloria II

  9. #29

    Re: replacing the floor

    Defender sells it. 6' wide by the linear foot. That's where I bought what's installed on my boat.
    Eric
    41TC 1966 Hull #53 "Requisite"
    Kent Island, MD/Ft. Lauderdale, FL

    "Though she creaks - She holds"

  10. #30

    Re: replacing the floor

    Right. I have 19 linear feet, six feet wide, which was about $800, plus the adhesive they tell you to use.

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