Fuel Injector service

[Avenger]

You should send the mechanic a Christmas card every year for that.

[Reefgeorge]

You should send the mechanic a Christmas card every year for that.

That's for sure. BTW, the last injector on the fwd right bank was too cramped for the longer removal tool that I started with and so I wound up using the lower right item in post 10 which is much more compact and a better choice overall if anyone ever tries to tackle this on their own. It's also the one shown in the MAN repair manual photo that I showed in an earlier post. Also, that injector was partially corroded and tougher to remove. It's right under a bunch of coolant hoses and fittings so I bet there has been some leaking. Fortunately it came out but it was a lot tighter. Once again these tools are fantastic, I can't imagine this job without them.

George

[Reefgeorge]

All the injectors are out. This is what the set up looks like for the removal tool. The center nut for the fuel line thread attachment is 7/8" or 22mm drive. The outer socket with the castle nut drive is 1 1/4" or 32mm drive. You fit the socket onto the castle nut, screw the center piece into the fuel line threads. Then you immobilize the center nut and back the castle nut out which forces the injector up as the castle sleeve backs out and up.

George

[Reefgeorge]

I decided on Diesel Injection of Martin County (John) as suggested here as apposed to the shop that Ace Marine uses because they are closer, less expensive and seemed to know what they are doing.

Thanks,

George

[Reefgeorge]

When you guys reinstall the injectors do you do anything to flush the fuel system to the point of injector attachment? The whole time that you are removing the fuel line attachments at the fuel pump, pieces of paint are breaking off of the nuts. I kept wiping everything and then capped the upright threaded fuel pump attachment points but i can't be sure that nothing dropped down into the standing fuel in the tubes. It would suck to do all this work and wind up with a piece of crap being pushed through the line and plugging the injector.

Thanks,

George

[captpl]

I would suggest when you re-install your injectors use copper (high heat) never seize... makes for
an easy removal next service. Whoever you have rebuilding your Bosch injectors make sure to spend
the extra money for bosch tips, the cheaper Monarch tips will not last as long, and will potentially
make your wallet scream when one becomes embedded in a cylinder crown.


Other things to look for on older Man diesels (they have no engine zincs) is to pay attention to your
heat exchanger - periodically remove and clean the "bundle" and inspect the tank for pitting. If you
have ANY leak at all on your oil cooler, don't over look it, that will be the most expensive 30 second
of your life, when this element fails it is catastrophic. I take a lot of "heat" for Man engines from
the crowd, but I still think they are far superior in all aspects to the GM 8v-92's they replaced.

Paul
MAN 2842 12cyl.

[Reefgeorge]

I already had an external raw water leak on my port transmission cooler and replaced it. I will probably do the stb next to avoid problems. 10-4 on the heat exchangers. The old injectors were coated in the aluminum based (silver) anti seize compound. I have now been advised to use that one again, the copper based one and also the nickle based (black) one. Reading the company literature does not help straighten that out so I will probably call the company on Monday to see what they recommend. The default is probably to repeat the silver colored aluminum based compound so that something new does mix with the considerable amount of the aluminum compound left behind.

Do you guys attempt to clean out the gunk in the injector bore and the castle nut threads at the top of the bore before re-installing the injectors?

Thanks,

George

[Reefgeorge]

I did have the rebuild service use Bosch tips.

Do you guys go to the trouble of trying to clean up those holes and threads so that you dont wind up with a piece of crud under the copper sealing washer, interfering with the threads, or fouling the tiny injector openings? Does it matter that some of that crud would be falling through the opening into the cylinder bore?

[Avenger]

Can't see it from here, but cleaning isn't usually a bad idea as long as you don't drop anything hard in the cylinder.

[Reefgeorge]

The supplier of the engines to Cabo just confirmed that I need to wipe all of that stuff out, clean up the threads and make sure that the flat surface that the copper sealing washer bears on is dead clean.

Thanks,

George