New AC system

[kelpy]

I would use electric heating elements in each air handler vs reverse cycle.

And make sure the installer does not leave any gaps in the pipe and isolation valve(s) insulation or the insulation will get soaked by the condensation.

[jim rosenthal]

I'd get the breakers, though. They look like Airpax from here and if any of them are good, they are worth keeping.

[Byresch]

I would use electric heating elements in each air handler vs reverse cycle.

And make sure the installer does not leave any gaps in the pipe and isolation valve(s) insulation or the insulation will get soaked by the condensation.

I had the electric heating elements on my Roamer instead of the reverse cycle and I was really glad I did in Southern Maryland.

[krush]

I'd get the breakers, though. They look like Airpax from here and if any of them are good, they are worth keeping.

I'd like to get the whole panel and other stuff. It's useful for me.

[Pascal]

Sorry it was next to the AC I pulled and when the marina picked them up they took the panel too. There was nothing to salvage anyway

[krush]

Sorry it was next to the AC I pulled and when the marina picked them up they took the panel too. There was nothing to salvage anyway

Nope, nothing useful at all, like the meter(s) that match, a few breakers, and some lights/lenses that likely match my original hatt panel.

[kelpy]

Nope, nothing useful at all, like the meter(s) that match, a few breakers, and some lights/lenses that likely match my original hatt panel.

Nice post.

[SKYCHENEY]

Nope, nothing useful at all, like the meter(s) that match, a few breakers, and some lights/lenses that likely match my original hatt panel.

I have to agree, but then, I keep everything. You never know when you might need it. And those rotary switches, if operable are worth something. They're outrageous if you have to buy one new.

[krush]

Nice post.

Yup, nothing would be useful for me at all.

[q240z]

I like the OE panel you've got there krush.

I revived this thread because it covers a topic I hadn't thought I'd be dealing with until next year, but with the way my V-berth cabinets are flying together (it's like they assemble themselves!!! ) I now realize that my AC plan won't work. I'm looking for options. Here's where I'm at:

My old Chris Crafts have always had OE split air conditioners that worked just fine or new self-contained units installed the the PO. I haven't had to do anything but recharge, clean, and relocate the evap unit on my current Commander 42. Designing entire systems isn't something I've done before. OTOH, it's not like I'm intimidated by the thought of doing new stuff.

I'm not interested in split systems. There's too much copper, this is an aluminum boat, and too many places where leaks can happen in inaccessible places.

On the V-berth, there's no room for extensive ducting unless it starts in the V-berth and ends there. I can't easily attach the V-berth to a cold air supply anywhere else. I could install a small (6.5kbtu) self-contained unit, though. I could also go the chiller route.

I could use a relatively big (36kbtu) self-contained unit to supply the salon/galley and aft cabin. There's a great spot for one and ducting would be a breeze. I could also go with 16kbtu for the aft cabin and another one for the salon. I'd end up ducting some of that aft stateroom cool into the salon, since the aft only needs 12k.

I was planning on using resistant heat coils rather than reverse cycle. I also have a Webasto 2010 diesel boiler, and hydronic would be kind of nice as an option.

OR, I could go with a 3 evaporator chiller system and maybe tie the Webaso into the evap units during the heat season if diesel heat works out to be more practical than electric.

It looks to me like chiller systems are, relatively speaking, expensive. Insulation breaches on the cooling lines could put all sorts of condensation in very unpleasant places, so it has some similar concerns to split systems. OTOH, the new compressor and fan technology make self-contained units so quiet that it kind of makes sense to go with them on a 'bang for the buck' basis. I could always install hydronic toekick heaters later.

And then there are the manufacturers. I've heard good and bad about pretty much all of 'em. I keep reading about dead proprietary control boards, which has me leaning to Flagship, but if they're using 'off the shelf' components, why are they generally the most expensive? There are too many choices. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Q