Run Allison Transmission oil pump with engine off

[Freeebird]

Yes, there is a problem with overloading or "lugging". But, in the case of that thread, Brian adjusted his governor to allow max 1600 RPM. This would not overload the engine at this RPM.

However, had he not done that, and somebody tried to hit 2300RPM with the larger props, the engine would be overloaded ABOVE 1600RPM.

Why would adjusting the governor accomplish anything? If the props are that much larger, they won't reach the rated 2,300 anyway.

I understand that's the idea where temps are concerned, but how can it be more efficient to put that much more strain on an engine?

This conversation is starting to sound familiar now.

[sailorryan]

Why would adjusting the governor accomplish anything? If the props are that much larger, they won't reach the rated 2,300 anyway.

I understand that's the idea where temps are concerned, but how can it be more efficient to put that much more strain on an engine?

This conversation is starting to sound familiar now.

This was done by previous owners right before we bought it (about a year). When questioning the shop why they did what they did during survey (govern etc), the gist of it was to prevent trying to go to increase the rpm "too" high bc of the setup.

When we bought the boat with the current setup and 2nd set of props setup the same way.

I saw the bill, there are lots of good options when you have gobs to spend like previous owners - alas we do not.

[sailorryan]

I'll be happy to go back over my notes or old posts to find numbers for you, but mine aren't going to do you much good considering I was running 12V71N's in a 58' Hatt. You WILL get better MPG's if you run on one engine and remove a prop, but mine would only serve to show you percentage gains on my particular boat. I can tell you that number would be around 20%, but again, I'm sure removing the prop made my numbers better than they would have been trailing one. I can't help you with numbers there.

I was more talking about rudder angles etc for comparison. Motor nums are not needed bc obviously we are setup different.

[Freeebird]

I was more talking about rudder angles etc for comparison. Motor nums are not needed bc obviously we are setup different.

I had nothing on that boat to measure the rudder angles, but with 8 more feet of hull and a longer and possibly deeper keel, I'm guessing mine required less than yours will.

[sailorryan]

I had nothing on that boat to measure the rudder angles, but with 8 more feet of hull and a longer and possibly deeper keel, I'm guessing mine required less than yours will.

Now worries. I appreciate the thoughts.

Ideally if I knew I could run as is for "forever" at 650-900 RPMs on both, without having to spend an arm and a leg (ideally as is) - I would do that. No wet stacking, proper temps, efficient combustion, 1.25 NMGP+, maneuverability, etc anything besides this perfect world scenario has pros/cons with it.

The 3 ideas that make the most sense all things considered are swapping out injectors (discussed outside forum), locking the shaft (discussed outside forum), installing aux trans oil pump (purpose of this post).

I have a call into the previous owners asking about a few things, and they were pretty anal about keeping everything, and owned the boat for the last 20 years.

[krush]

Why would adjusting the governor accomplish anything? If the props are that much larger, they won't reach the rated 2,300 anyway.

I understand that's the idea where temps are concerned, but how can it be more efficient to put that much more strain on an engine?

Because you don't understand the concepts of operating parameters and engine HP curves and Prop Curves and the physics of what is going on. Brian explained it in his thread perfectly.

For hypothetical...want to go 10 knots hull speed. It's more efficient to load an engine properly at a lower RPM of 1200 rpm to go this 10knots using bigger props than it is to run with smaller props running 1800.

[Glory]

Let me paint a mental picture for you. You rush down to the head when you're alone it's rough out, and you fall and hit your head. Just as you're losing consciousness, you see me in a dream state with my jug or Bob and his cockpit (a term that now brings on whole new meaning). Do you REALLY wanna go out like that?

Be a man, get a jug. Hell, get two and alternate between them.

Dam, that's horror, you could pick up where Alfred Hitchcock lift off!

And another thing, that's not a dream that is a nightmare!

With that said, I'll hang on tight, wear a helmet and pray I don't wind up in your next horror flick!

[Bob Bradley]

Wow. Been offline a while. I cant believe this thread actually went back onto the tracks. Nice job, guys.

[Freeebird]

Wow. Been offline a while. I cant believe this thread actually went back onto the tracks. Nice job, guys.

Hey, we can't lose them all.

[Freeebird]

Now worries. I appreciate the thoughts.

Ideally if I knew I could run as is for "forever" at 650-900 RPMs on both, without having to spend an arm and a leg (ideally as is) - I would do that. No wet stacking, proper temps, efficient combustion, 1.25 NMGP+, maneuverability, etc anything besides this perfect world scenario has pros/cons with it.

The 3 ideas that make the most sense all things considered are swapping out injectors (discussed outside forum), locking the shaft (discussed outside forum), installing aux trans oil pump (purpose of this post).

I have a call into the previous owners asking about a few things, and they were pretty anal about keeping everything, and owned the boat for the last 20 years.

I'd love to get 20MPG out of my old '72 Blazer too, but the thought of replacing the original 350 with a Briggs & Stratton just doesn't seem to be what God intended for that vehicle. Catch my drift?

You bought a very well engineered boat that will indeed last forever. Same with those DD naturals (so I hear) if you just take care of them. Run them both, as God and Hatteras intended, and enjoy the boat the way it was designed to be. Yes, we've come full circle, but some things just end up that way when they're so obvious.

That being said, are you TRULY going to use the boat enough (as in hours running) to make all this crap worthwhile? It will net you ZERO when the time comes to sell it. In fact, you'll have to spend the money to undo things to keep it from hurting the value. Nothing is forever, so again, do what you gotta do. It's like choosing to eat nothing but vegetables and water in order to live an extra few years. Maybe the quality of your boating will be worth the very few extra bucks you'll spend at the pump when you take everything else into consideration.