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Thread: Core repair

  1. #31

    Re: Core repair

    Check out balsa core repair on UTube and see what happens when you use epoxy as a fix. You will most likely change your mind.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  2. #32

    Re: Core repair

    Quote Originally Posted by SEVEN View Post
    Check out balsa core repair on UTube and see what happens when you use epoxy as a fix. You will most likely change your mind.
    can you give a link? There are many balsa core repair videos on youtube.
    FTFD... i drive a slow 1968 41c381

  3. #33

    Re: Core repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Mapes View Post
    Refillable caulk tubes for epoxy? YGTBSM. You'd better keep the tubes, resin, and hardener in the fridge because you will be lucky to get it into the tube before it kicks. Once you have it in the tube it will probably kick before you can squeeze it out. Don't bother thinking about this method let alone trying it.
    Don't know Dan, just passing along what I thought I heard (maybe dangerous, I guess, to pass along something you heard but didn't actually do). I have read several threads in other places describing the same method. Maybe he said something important that I missed - is there a long potlife epoxy that would work, or something other than epoxy?
    Mike Peters, 1985 43MY, Cat 3208T, Blue Bayou; 2011 Key West 246BR, F250, Baby Blue; Punta Gorda FL

  4. #34

    Re: Core repair

    Quote Originally Posted by krush View Post
    can you give a link? There are many balsa core repair videos on youtube.
    Look up UTube go balsa core repair. File down till you see a 3:06 video from captain bildgewater. It shows what happens to the repair using epoxy fillers. Nasty.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  5. #35

    Re: Core repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Mapes View Post
    Refillable caulk tubes for epoxy? YGTBSM. You'd better keep the tubes, resin, and hardener in the fridge because you will be lucky to get it into the tube before it kicks. Once you have it in the tube it will probably kick before you can squeeze it out. Don't bother thinking about this method let alone trying it.
    Maybe he's talking about this:

    http://www.westsystem.com/ss/six10-t...poxy-adhesive/
    Looking for another boat...not a Hatt

  6. #36

    Re: Core repair

    Did find this this post which references at least one of the problems with this method:

    "Once did a sorta similar thing with a deck that had separated from its dry balsa core, but used a caulking gun for pressure (not nearly as much pressure). Worked fairly well, but had a bad side effect: Apparently I had drilled a bit deep on at least one hole, for shortly afterwards I discovered an overhead light fixture in the
    galley (below the repair area) that was full of cured epoxy. This lead to the discovery that a wiring conduit was similarly full... not easily dealt with!

    So, if you try such a technique, be careful when you drill the holes!"
    Mike Peters, 1985 43MY, Cat 3208T, Blue Bayou; 2011 Key West 246BR, F250, Baby Blue; Punta Gorda FL

  7. #37

    Re: Core repair

    Quote Originally Posted by SEVEN View Post
    Look up UTube go balsa core repair. File down till you see a 3:06 video from captain bildgewater. It shows what happens to the repair using epoxy fillers. Nasty.
    Good video (it was 2:20, so maybe not the exact same one, but it was Capt Bilgewater recoring a deck). Illustrates what the Viking guy said about later additional repair being made much more difficult.
    Mike Peters, 1985 43MY, Cat 3208T, Blue Bayou; 2011 Key West 246BR, F250, Baby Blue; Punta Gorda FL

  8. #38

    Re: Core repair

    Quote Originally Posted by wpc691 View Post
    Moving to survey on soon-to-be-mine 1985 43MY week after next. Among the thousand details to be dealt with, the port bow quarter of the foredeck is rotten, the result of faulty pulpit and windlass switch bedding. The area is defined by a 44" line from the bow along the pulpit and between the switches, a 50" line from there to the port rail (actually ends short of the toekick), then back to the bow along the toekick). I'm thinking about repairing this myself, but it would be the biggest fiberglass project by far that I've ever tackled - I've read what I could find here and elsewhere; it seems fairly straightforward, but still a lot of work for an area this big, and a very visible area to risk less than perfect results. So, it might make more sense to have a yard do the work; assuming the boat's hauled, I would also probably have them install line cutters and a chartplotter/sonar combo (boat doesn't have one, owner uses iPad for nav; I want a bottom machine to facilitate occasional wreck fishing detours while cruising, so might as well do cp/sonar combo then have iPad for nav backup). Long story short, does anybody have a recommendation for a reliable yard to do this work on the west coast of Florida, anywhere from St Pete to the south? Alternative might be to have the work done on the way home between SC and FL , but that would make checking on the work in progress kind of a pita. Thanks in advance.
    What is the meaning of "wreck fishing detour". I'm on fresh water. Maybe we don't have that kind of thing. Just curious the meaning.

  9. #39

    Re: Core repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Triskele View Post
    What is the meaning of "wreck fishing detour". I'm on fresh water. Maybe we don't have that kind of thing. Just curious the meaning.
    Lots of old vessels on the bottom off the coast which attract lots of fish. If you're over one and fishing, you're "wreck fishing". The 43MY will never win any contests as a fishing machine, but I couldn't talk The Admiral into a sportfish. One of my many trip plans is to tow the bay boat to the Marquesas, using the MY as a mothership and wreck fishing with the bay boat.
    Mike Peters, 1985 43MY, Cat 3208T, Blue Bayou; 2011 Key West 246BR, F250, Baby Blue; Punta Gorda FL

  10. #40

    Re: Core repair

    I spoke with the folks at West and while they have videos etc for other approaches they had nothing on the caulk gun approach. Epoxy kicks faster when it is in a lump. If it is spread out thin it cures more slowly. Ask me how I know....

    It got so hot it melted the tube.

    I gave up trying to use these tubes and bought the mix as you squeeze Six10 version. Very convenient and easy to work with. The tips should be thrown out after each use unless you want to soak them in epoxy thinner and blow them out.

    prep12.jpg
    Last edited by Dan Mapes; 08-30-2016 at 07:49 AM.
    Regards
    Dan

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