Float switches - No longer a Rule fan.

[Genesis]

Solid-state relays (assuming this is what they're using) are extremely reliable, BUT are intolerant of both spikes (as noted) and SHORTS.

Also, as these are switching inductive loads I assume they are properly protected (internally) from back-EMF - that would also tend to protect against spikes as well.

[mike]

FWIW, solid-state relays along with the associated sensors and circuitry are all available for industrial applications. Since the late 80’s, we have used just about every type of level sensor known to man in pursuit of a reliable switching system for use in our $1M+ wafer fab processing equipment that we build for wet processing of Si wafers. I have been trying to avoid using similar hi-end approaches, on the theory that marine-industry purpose built off-the shelf solutions are simpler, better and cheaper. However, I need to reconsider my biased point of view given all of the similar experiences discussed in this thread. Building a bulletproof switch is very doable, but the cost may be hard to justify, unless of course it saves my boat………

It would seem a simple solid-state switch would be cheap and very reliable…..and very marketable, unless of course, you as the manufacturer want a certain amount of planned obsolesce to ensure a continuous revenue stream. So going full circle, Rule or any like supplier, can profitably make an inexpensive, reliable switch if they have the will to do it. It’s a question of what is a fair price, and a fair ROI? I hate to be so cynical, but my bet is they don’t care, unless and until there is a loss of life that can be directly attributed to their product’s failure, and they are hit with a major law suite resulting in a significant damage award. So one option is to go it alone and build it ourselves. I believe there is enough talent on this board to make it happen. Anyone interested?

[MikeP]

After getting the email from the company, I'm inclining toward re-ordering 4 of the 32V Jr. switches, UPS-02. I found a page with installation instructions which might be of some interest: http://www.ultrasafetysystems.com/ty...pumpswitch.htm

I have to admit I'm a little uncomfortable with the mechanical side of routine switch testing, as Genesis pointed out. As most people do, I check the float switches fairly often - usually weekly. With the Ultimates, you can test the electrical portion of the switch but you will have to trust the fact that the float will rise and activate it. I suppose if enough Cr@p gets in the switch, the float may become obstructed and fail to rise. Probably a very unlikely occurance plus the fact that the float seems quite large compared to a Rule-type float switch. That would make it more bouyant and able to deal with a lot more gunk than a "normal" switch.

[Genesis]

A stuck ON float switch is just as bad as a stuck OFF one. Maybe worse, since stuck ON will eventually (if you're on AC power) burn up the pump motor resulting in NO pump capability.

Of course you'll discover this when the bilge fills up and despite your whacking the switch and/or jumpering it out the pump doesn't work anymore.....

Lack of 100% test capability is a BIG DEAL.

[first230sl]

Lack of 100% test capability is a BIG DEAL.

I have to agree. In many ways I would rather have a switch that fails much more often than one that doesn't IF I CAN'T BE SURE ABOUT THE HEALTH OF THE BETTER SWITCH, BUT I CAN BE SURE ABOUT THE MORE FAILURE PRONE SWITCH. The idea of going around with possibly failed switches and having no sure and easy way to know makes me very uncomfortable. Everything *can* fail. Therefore being able to test and have confidence that the test is comprehensive is the only thing that will allow me to sleep at night.

So - having said all that, I am going to replace my west marine switches (whcih I know are bad) with whatever mechanical switch looks the best. I believe there is value in simplicity in this case - even if I have to replace them more often.

Take care - Murray

[mike]

If your interested in a 40v liquid sensor check out this web site. You can make your own switch, using some PVC pipe. The switch will be non-mechanical and can mounted at a fixed location in the bilge.

http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com...,140876,140877

[MikeP]

Life is so confusing sometimes!

[Nonchalant1]

Here's a thought:

Snake River, the guys that make the "no moving parts" tank sensors, also make a bilge pump switch using the capacitance technology. It can't get fouled up by crud floating in the bilge. I have their tank sensors and they work great. I have never tried their float switch, but it sure sounds like it'd work great. It can be set for how high to come on and then how low to go off so it reduces bilge pump cycling.

http://www.snakeriverelectronics.com/Products.asp?ID=3

Doug

[Traveler 45C]

Seems like those Ultimate switches can be checked by inserting a screwdriver into the bottom and pushing the float up…

[Traveler 45C]

Mike,

Did you get the new float switches installed yet and if so, what do you think of them? Can they be manually checked?