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  1. #1

    Learning experience/ with cost

    today was a cluster mess.. I found my lost prop had to put a reward on the thing the guys at the mariner found it. Cheaper than purching a new one or two. +++++++ The shaft broke it was 2 1/2 inch thick. The new shaft arrived yesterday indtalled the new shaft bolted it to the coupler and off we went to slide the prop on. The shaft was made to hatteras specks as to what came on the boat got the speck sheet from Hatteras. The company that turned the shaft said he should check the prop to the shaft. (past experience told him mis fit props broke shafts) Well have at it and he did the prop was off that was what caused the shaft to brake. With that in mind nothing to do but check the other shaft and prop. After removing the prop he put a red bye on the shaft and a crack in the exact same place as the other broke. After a bunch of bull and talking nothing to do but purchase a new shaft. My point

    When purching a boat eaven with all you know and the best survaror in the business will miss that .
    Probley will not eaven think about checking it it cost 2 shafts 8000 plus hall out 300 plus labor to remove and install 2 shafts and fus cut the props to properly match 3000
    total cost about a 12000 hit .

    Outcome slick and smooth .There was a small vibration at about 1600 to 1800 not enough to really worry about if you got one find the problem if you are thinking about purching. Do not just sluff it off Tim

  2. #2

    Re: Learning experience/ with cost

    Quote Originally Posted by tIM pOWELL View Post
    today was a cluster mess.. I found my lost prop had to put a reward on the thing the guys at the mariner found it. Cheaper than purching a new one or two. +++++++ The shaft broke it was 2 1/2 inch thick. The new shaft arrived yesterday indtalled the new shaft bolted it to the coupler and off we went to slide the prop on. The shaft was made to hatteras specks as to what came on the boat got the speck sheet from Hatteras. The company that turned the shaft said he should check the prop to the shaft. (past experience told him mis fit props broke shafts) Well have at it and he did the prop was off that was what caused the shaft to brake. With that in mind nothing to do but check the other shaft and prop. After removing the prop he put a red bye on the shaft and a crack in the exact same place as the other broke. After a bunch of bull and talking nothing to do but purchase a new shaft. My point

    When purching a boat eaven with all you know and the best survaror in the business will miss that .
    Probley will not eaven think about checking it it cost 2 shafts 8000 plus hall out 300 plus labor to remove and install 2 shafts and fus cut the props to properly match 3000
    total cost about a 12000 hit .

    Outcome slick and smooth .There was a small vibration at about 1600 to 1800 not enough to really worry about if you got one find the problem if you are thinking about purching. Do not just sluff it off Tim
    Welcome back to boat ownership.
    Scott
    41C117 "Hattatude"
    Port Canaveral Florida.


    Marine Electronics and Electrical Products Distributor.

  3. #3

    Re: Learning experience/ with cost

    What exactly was wrong with the prop to shaft fit? I've never heard of this problem.
    1977 Hatteras 58' MY, Hull No. 304, 4-stateroom galley up model with 8V71TIs in Knoxville, Tennessee

  4. #4

    Re: Learning experience/ with cost

    Quote Originally Posted by davidwigler View Post
    What exactly was wrong with the prop to shaft fit? I've never heard of this problem.
    Lapping the prop to shaft and checking the fit it has been mention here many many times and is all over boat diesel Tony has a Tip section on it good read. I lap mine every time they come off regardless of how many times prior they have been done. Also you need to check the key way fit and make sure its not hanging up on it.
    Dan
    End Of The Line II
    1967 34C

    EOTL II Rebuild Web Page

    ><(((º>´¯`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸><((((º>`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸><(( (( º>¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸¸><(((º>

  5. #5

    Re: Learning experience/ with cost

    I lost a prop the same way. It was an expensive lesson.

    I had both props removed and reinstalled by a diver without pulling the boat. While being reinstalled, they got hung on the key apparently, and never fully seated. A year later one broke off just in front of the prop. I checked the other and it too was cracked and would have failed.

    Bottom line is this: Always haul to do the props. Always fit the props with lapping compound. Use coarse compound first. Apply it liberally, snug the nut slightly, then spin the prop on the taper. As you spin it, it gets looser. Tighten the nut and spin it some more. A lot more. Take it apart, clean it up, then apply fine lapping compound - again, liberally. Repeat the process.

    Finally, install the prop. Remember, the key does not carry the prop. It only aligns it. The prop must be fully pressed against the tapered shaft. Also, use the big nut to press the prop on, then once on, remove the big nut and put the smaller nut onto the threads and tighten. Finally, put the big nut on last and tighten. Don't forget to put in a new cotter pin.
    Everyone should believe in something - I believe I will go fishing - Henry David Thoreau

  6. #6

    Re: Learning experience/ with cost

    i agree with bob about how to lap the prop. when i'm done lapping the prop, i mark the shaft at the fwd end of the prop, then install the key, and make sure the prop makes it all the way on the shaft up to the mark that i made without the key. this insures that the prop isn't binding on the key.

  7. #7

    Re: Learning experience/ with cost

    blue check?
    FTFD... i drive a slow 1968 41c381

  8. #8

    Re: Learning experience/ with cost

    Quote Originally Posted by tIM pOWELL View Post
    today was a cluster mess.. I found my lost prop had to put a reward on the thing the guys at the mariner found it. Cheaper than purching a new one or two. +++++++ The shaft broke it was 2 1/2 inch thick. The new shaft arrived yesterday indtalled the new shaft bolted it to the coupler and off we went to slide the prop on. The shaft was made to hatteras specks as to what came on the boat got the speck sheet from Hatteras. The company that turned the shaft said he should check the prop to the shaft. (past experience told him mis fit props broke shafts) Well have at it and he did the prop was off that was what caused the shaft to brake. With that in mind nothing to do but check the other shaft and prop. After removing the prop he put a red bye on the shaft and a crack in the exact same place as the other broke. After a bunch of bull and talking nothing to do but purchase a new shaft. My point

    When purching a boat eaven with all you know and the best survaror in the business will miss that .
    Probley will not eaven think about checking it it cost 2 shafts 8000 plus hall out 300 plus labor to remove and install 2 shafts and fus cut the props to properly match 3000
    total cost about a 12000 hit .

    Outcome slick and smooth .There was a small vibration at about 1600 to 1800 not enough to really worry about if you got one find the problem if you are thinking about purching. Do not just sluff it off Tim
    Sorry to hear about this Tim. Hard way to start when you have done all that research and careful surveying. Let's hope it's a long while before another major problem/cost shows up.
    Good luck Mate!
    George

  9. #9

    Re: Learning experience/ with cost

    Quote Originally Posted by krush View Post
    blue check?
    No, no, no!

    That would suggest that parts can be made so they can be assembled without hand fitting.

    A concept that hasn't been invented yet.
    --- The poster formerly known as Scrod ---

    I want to live in Theory, everything works there.

    1970 36C375

  10. #10

    Re: Learning experience/ with cost

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Bradley View Post
    I lost a prop the same way. It was an expensive lesson.

    I had both props removed and reinstalled by a diver without pulling the boat. While being reinstalled, they got hung on the key apparently, and never fully seated. A year later one broke off just in front of the prop. I checked the other and it too was cracked and would have failed.

    Bottom line is this: Always haul to do the props. Always fit the props with lapping compound. Use coarse compound first. Apply it liberally, snug the nut slightly, then spin the prop on the taper. As you spin it, it gets looser. Tighten the nut and spin it some more. A lot more. Take it apart, clean it up, then apply fine lapping compound - again, liberally. Repeat the process.

    Finally, install the prop. Remember, the key does not carry the prop. It only aligns it. The prop must be fully pressed against the tapered shaft. Also, use the big nut to press the prop on, then once on, remove the big nut and put the smaller nut onto the threads and tighten. Finally, put the big nut on last and tighten. Don't forget to put in a new cotter pin.
    Bob I must agree never use a diver, After checking i found that a diver did this work in florida befor i purchased the boat.
    A small vibration caused the owner to pull the props and have them ballanced, Diver did the work...

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