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  1. #1

    Fresh and salt water pumps

    I am requesting comments regarding the original Galley Maid head pumps aboard our 1984, 53' MY "HoocH".

    The pumps were rebuilt about two years ago by Galley Maid but several things happen when used;

    A. they tend to overflow (seem to get out of cycle) when underway even though we only use them for "number 1 waste.

    B. They seem to effect each other when being used. ie. blue waste treatment migrates from the midship head to the forward head.

    I am being told to replace the two "stators" on each pump and all problems will be solved. Not sure how that will solve the problem.

    Lastly if money were not an issue (sadly it is) is there a recommended toilet system (32V) we should consider in order to continue upgrading HoocH?

    Thank You,
    LTC Justin McCarthy, USA (Ret.) Owner

  2. #2

    Re: Fresh and salt water pumps

    I assume these are the original heads using raw water? There is no common plumbing between the heads if all the plumbing is oem.

    The original Hatteras documentation for your specific hull number, which should have come with the boat shows the schematic for the head plumbing. It also explains that if you leave the valves in a certain position, it can cause the waste tanks to fill with seawater. I can't recall at the moment what that position is but the holding tank(s) are the only item common between heads. Each head has a separate dump fitting into the tank.

    It is normal on many boats for the oem raw water heads to "hesitate" under way as far as filling/flushing is concerned. That occurs due to the motion of the water past the intake seacock. On our boat the forward head does that any time the boat is running. It will flush normally but it takes a few seconds for the pump to pick up the raw water.

    The stators should not be bad in only two years unless the rotors are chewed up. If that's the case, the rotors will then wear out the stators relatively rapidly. I am currently rebuilding one of my pumps and had to purchase a new discharge rotor (about 150 bucks!). It also needed new motor bearings. The pump had last been rebuilt in 1992 so 20 years ain't bad!

    People seem to like either the Vacuflush or the Raritan Atlantes head. The Atlantes is available in 32V the VF is not. I have never had any real problem with the oem heads; they seem pretty much bulletproof. I have considered the Atlantes heads on several occasions but only because the GM heads are NOISY! Otherwise, they have provided excellent service.
    Mike P
    San Miguel de Allende, Mexico; Kent Island MD; San Antonio TX
    1980 53MY "Brigadoon"

  3. #3

    Re: Fresh and salt water pumps

    According to Sealand, their 24volt VF works fine on 32V. We have VF courtesy of a prior owner and love them, reliable, low maintenance, fresh water, simple, low output so longer between pump outs. But if it were me in the OP's shoes, I'd follow Mike's tips, perhaps talk to Galley Maid, and try to fix the current system first. Like he said, they last a long time if maintained and set up right. I think I'd almost rather buy a different boat than go through changing out head systems...
    George
    Former Owner: "Incentive" 1981 56MY
    2007-2014

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