[QUOTE=fissioneng;216619]Nothing wrong with lead on a lead stud, actually preferred according to some people.
If we go with that reasoning, you still will have a lead to copper join somewhere. I was referring to lead battery terminals to connect to post type batteries. I have found the lead to be too soft to be able to torque the bolt well and will break apart if torqued too far. Isn't bimetal just a fancy name for tinned copper?
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Thread: Batteries
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Re: Batteries
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08-30-2012 04:27 PM #32
Re: Batteries
Certainly the lead can be cracked if too much pressure is applied.
And yes, part of the connector I'm talking about is tinned copper that is attached to a lead battery clamp. The bimetal designation comes from the combination of a copper wire end and a lead battery end.Looking for another boat...not a Hatt
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08-31-2012 08:39 AM #33
Re: Batteries
After a lot of study on our forum and Google, decided to stay with Deka 819 on my 70' 1974 Hatteras, KarryAnne. Ordered 3 weeks ago from a vendor here in the St. Louis area for $325 each, delivered to engine room and no tax charged since I'm across the Mississippi at the Alton Marina. My previous batteries lasted 8 years. One side went, from testing good in May, to over half the cells bad starboard side by 8/1. Do have parallel switch on bridge, but did not connect it's function until last weekend when after installing the new batteries, one cell blew it's cap off when starting. Was in the same boat, so to speak, again with only one bank working. When I removed cover the cell was smoking Hydrogen gas. Called East Penn, told them the situation on Tuesday and they sent a battery from the factory in Pennsylvania to Wholesale Battery & they delivered to my boat yesterday. 3 Days.... That's customer service! BTW was able to use parallel switch to start both 12v71T and replaced all cables with 4.0 wire, soldered in copper connectors, cost about $300.
Waiting for Hurricane Isaac this weekend to pass, so hope to be cranking back up on Labor Day for another test run..
Capt. Ron