New Fridge for 43 DC – Help Selecting One

[sgharford]

The day has come when my original 1976 Frigidaire model FPI-152T refridgerator no longer works. I pulled it out and have in salon, and yes it will be nightmare everyone says it is getting it the whole way out. I’m pretty sure I will have to remove teak door jambs from lower helm entrance to get that extra 2”.

I saved all the threads on past replacement model numbers for when this day came and unfortunately all of the recommended models are no longer made either. I am not repairing the original as I would like to replace with more efficient model. Even when it was running right, the pure sine wave inverter, with 2 Rolls 8’d’s, can barely keep up with fridge for overnighter on anchor. I have not been able to find a good replacement model online based on below maximum dimensions. Can anyone make a recommendation of web-site and/or model number that will fit these dimensions?

Boat: 1976 43DC (no dinette)
Existing Model: 1976 Frigidaire model FPI-152T (swing-out doors with fridge on bottom and freezer on top, 120 vac)

Max Height: 60”
Max Width: 30”
Max Depth: 28.25” (includes 2.25” for door depth, 26” with doors removed)

Thanks in advance – Scott.

[GJH]

Try these guys:

http://www.compactappliance.com/Apar...efault,sc.html

They have been helpful in my search for a new small beverage cooler / reefer for the aft deck.

[SeaEric]

http://www.lowes.com/pd_356567-2251-...7C1&facetInfo=

The height is likely the biggest issue. Most of the shorter units are also narrow so you will have a space to fill on the sides.

[sgharford]

Thanks Guys! I know the depth is pretty important factor in all this too. The counter top is at about an 80 degree angle to fridge door, if you go to deep you will not be able to open the door (remember seeing this in past thread -somebody made that mistake).

Since the cabinetry is completely enclosed, with little ventilation in back, how important to you think it is I go with a front venting fridge like the original?

This is the one in lead so far - http://www.compactappliance.com/CP13..._Refrigerators )

Eric, your right - 60" height is the killer, really seems to shoe horn model in 24" width instead of original 30". Galley is going to look ghetto with this little fridge.

[Jaxfishgyd]

I got mine thru Sears when I had to replace the original.... Had to take the handles off the refrig and remove the SS handrail on the steps from the salon. The two employees who delivered it were "not to happy" but I did bribe them with beer(their last stop of the day) and it went easy, a perfect match. I have a 6" gap that is panaled (done at Hatteras) but I want to put in a big slide out shelf to make use of the empty space....

[spcoolin]

Thanks Guys! I know the depth is pretty important factor in all this too. The counter top is at about an 80 degree angle to fridge door, if you go to deep you will not be able to open the door (remember seeing this in past thread -somebody made that mistake).

Since the cabinetry is completely enclosed, with little ventilation in back, how important to you think it is I go with a front venting fridge like the original?

This is the one in lead so far - http://www.compactappliance.com/CP13..._Refrigerators )

Eric, your right - 60" height is the killer, really seems to shoe horn model in 24" width instead of original 30". Galley is going to look ghetto with this little fridge.

Front venting is VERY IMPORTANT for built in boxes, and also in a boat that is closed up with no A/C for any period of time...Not to mention inverter usage (well yeah it should be mentioned in your case)

Boxes in un-vented cabinets/enclosures can't get rid of the heat they are removing from inside the box efficiently...This makes them run higher head pressures, work harder, thus draw more amperage, and run longer to get to the setpoint temp of the thermostat...

My 2C...

Steve~

[sgharford]

You the Man Steve - Thanks. Can't beat the law of thermodynamics. Given so many house hold fridges are entombed in cabinetry these days thought maybe there was some new black magic being used to displace heat (keel coolers excluded). I remember your thread on poking interest in fridges, it was a good one, I learned allot.

[Bubbles]

Fyi I was killing myself with this last fall, and did alot of searching, with no luck, a local appliance retailer hooked me up with SUMMIT appliance and I found exactly what I needed. Doors should be measured instead of full fridge hieght.

[GJH]

If you don't get a front venting unit, while the old one is out, install a 12v muffin fan (like is used to cool computers) with any kind of ducting to another space that you can muster.

[Will]

I went through this a few years ago and got a Hotpoint HTR16ABSALCC which was identical to the GE that failed. In order to get it in, I had to remove the side moulding from the hatch to the aft deck and remove the half partition between the dinette and the salon along with the hand hold stanchion. The Hotpoint set about 1/2" further into the galley than the original and I had to move the galley drawers over about the same amount to clear the refer door. The drawer modification wasn't all that difficult.

They don't make the exact model I bought but the Hotpoint HTR16ABSRWW has similar measurements.

Ours is a 1980 43DC and there is what looks like a Hatteras original vent on the counter over the area of the back of the refrigerator.

We are very happy with it all.

Will