Cruisair Blower source??

[bobk]

The blower assembley on my forward AC (5000 BTU) is noisy. A friend who is in marine AC repair says the new part lists for $595 but he can get me a good discount. He also said the motor only could be had for around $60 from Grainger but it is a real PITA to change out. Has anyone found a source for after market units, or has anyone actually changed out just the motor? If so, how difficult was it? Other advice? A google search only provided Dometic parts.

Bobk
Chateau de Mer
lying Elizabeth City

[MikeP]

THere is good access to some air handlers - not others. It just depends on the specific boat. If access is OK, removing the motor is easy. I replaced bearings on two of my handler blower motors. Fortunately, they were easy to get to.

It's quite likely that the noise is caused by the motor bearings just need replacing. The bearings can easily be matched and the total cost won't be more than a few bucks if you do it yourself. I found that the local hardware store had the correct bearings in stock but if not they can be ordered from any number of suppliers.

In real estate it's "location, Location, LOCATION;" in boats it's "access, Access, ACCESS!"

[spcoolin]

THere is good access to some air handlers - not others. It just depends on the specific boat. If access is OK, removing the motor is easy. I replaced bearings on two of my handler blower motors. Fortunately, they were easy to get to.

It's quite likely that the noise is caused by the motor bearings just need replacing. The bearings can easily be matched and the total cost won't be more than a few bucks if you do it yourself. I found that the local hardware store had the correct bearings in stock but if not they can be ordered from any number of suppliers.

In real estate it's "location, Location, LOCATION;" in boats it's "access, Access, ACCESS!"

Really Mike ?....Bearings on a 5K blower motor ???...How do they say it on Monday Night ?...
"Come On Man"....

Not sure what model you are thinking about but all the 5K motors I remember had bushings....Yes that motor used to be cheap, and you probably can still get a close match thru Grainger....And it is a pain to change without damaging the squirrel cage that likes to lock itself to the motor shaft.

The replacement he is likely quoting you is a complete blower assembly with the new style motor inside the blower housing...It moves more air than the old one and is quieter too (at least on low speed)

Now if you have the old style EFB-5 blow-thru air handler (as opposed to the EBO-5 Draw-Thru) with the propeller type fan (50 Year Old design)....That's a whole different story....Cruisair no longer offers that motor or air handler, and you would be better served replacing the whole unit with one that moves more air...

Steve~

[MikeP]

Steve - As far as the blower/handler model number - I have no idea. I didn't look. I just pulled the motors and replaced the bearings. The blower motors on my '80 53MY handlers are just standard electric motors - nothing at all exotic or hard-to-find about them. Yes, they are bushing-type bearings as opposed to ball or roller bearings - I refer to them both as "bearings" just like we say "main bearings" on a car that are usually bushings. But the correct size bronze bushings were on the shelf at the Ace Hardware up the street. They've been running quietly for 4 years now.

Maybe the setup the OP is talking about is different but what is on our Hatt is no different than replacing them on any other blower or heater fan motor I have dealt with and I've dealt with a lot of them. Squirrel cage fans can be annoying to remove from the shaft but there's nothing hard about it if you are careful. AGAIN, I don't know if there are differences between different years/models of air handler blowers but the ones I replaced on our 53 were not any more difficult than vent blowers, car heater/ac blowers, etc.

But I will say that I would NOT want to have to do it on the forward salon air handler on our 53; I don't think I could get the motor out without moving the handler which would require disconnecting the refrigerant lines.

[rsmith]

Steve I have the old style propeller blade evap fans. I have replaced several with ones out of graingers but the 3 speed motors they sell do not have enough speed difference. I do not want to rework the cabinetry or spend the $$ for new evaps is there any replacement motors that will work better?

[Boatsb]

Steve I have the old style propeller blade evap fans. I have replaced several with ones out of graingers but the 3 speed motors they sell do not have enough speed difference. I do not want to rework the cabinetry or spend the $$ for new evaps is there any replacement motors that will work better?

I also have one of them and my salon unit has the new style fan. I can tell you it is worth changing to the new style. it passes more air. It's quieter and more efficient. If you can get to the old unit you should be able to swap it out for the new ones. cabinetry is a bit challenging but then again the improvement was very noticeable.

[spcoolin]

I'm on my phone now guys...

Get back to everyone in the AM when I have a real keyboard.
Maybe pictures too...

There are some major differences, and I'd like to maybe show them

Steve~

[bobk]

Here is some follow-up. First it is an EBO-7. Stock # 13107010, serial # B15014.

Access looks easy. See picture.

Mike, is there some special technique to removing the squirel cage or can the bearings or bushings be accessed while it is still assembled?

Foward Air Handler.jpg

All input appreciated guys. I have reasonable mechanical skills, but have never been into small motors.

Bobk

[MikeP]

That looks like the same unit that I have.

You can't get to the bearings without disassembling the motor and you can't disassemble the motor without removing it from the plenum/squirrel cage.

I did mine 4 years ago and didn't take any pics. I also put new bearings (ok, BUSHINGS! ) in my eng room vent blowers around the same time so my memory re this is VERY shaky. However given that...

IF I remember correctly, the plenum that holds the motor/squirrel cage was attached to the evaporator with two screws on each side of the evap. It is also, of course, attached to the duct hose. After removing the hose for the duct and the 4 screws, and disconnecting the motor's elec wires, the plenum/motor/squirrel cage can be lifted out and put on the table/workbench.

The squirrel cage itself was held onto the motor shaft with a set screw but, of course, was essentially seized onto the shaft. I cannot remember how the motor was actually attached to the plenum and I may be confusing this with some other system or with the vent blowers that I worked on but I seem to recall there were some screws, accessible from inside the plenum, holding the plenum to the motor. But it should be obvious once the plenum is out so you can look at it. I'm sure Steve can immediately supply this info.

After the motor is disconnected from the plenum it cannot be physically removed until the cage is off the shaft. Shoot some penetrating fluid on the shaft/cage joint. Then put some sort of support - a wood or metal "plate" with a long "U" cut in it works well - between the motor and the plenum that will allow you to tap on the motor shaft from the squirrel cage end and drive the motor out of the squirrel cage/plenum. Be sure to use a soft drift so you don't mushroom the shaft. As long as there is good support under the plenum/cage, there is no danger of damaging anything. Rather than a "plate" you can also use two flat pieces of metal (or wood,maybe an inch wide and 12" long as supports. Just put the pieces between the motor/plenum, lay the pieces across your lap, and tap out the motor. I've done that with a bunch of similar assemblies.

Once the motor is out it can be disassembled to access the bearings. I seem to recall that there were two long screws holding the end caps of the motor together but again, it will be apparent upon inspection. The bearings are at each end of the motor.

One thing worth noting is that it may be that all the bearings need is some oil as opposed to being replaced. In fact, both of my noisy blowers ceased being noisy when I put a couple of drops of motor oil on the shaft/bushing. However, since this removal thing is a bit of a PITA and you can't "oil" the bearings without disassembly, I figured I'd rather have new bearings as opposed to worn bearings that needed re-oiling periodically.

I'm sorry I can't remember enough to be more specific and, as I said earlier, some of what I wrote could be in error because of that. But I think it's generally correct and any differences should be obvious upon inspection once the plenum/motor/cage is removed from the evaporator.

Good Luck

[Boatsb]

I could not justify all that work and not replacing a $50 motor. If the motor bearings are old and worn so is the motor and probably prone to failure sooner than you think.