AC electrical problem getting crazy!!

[Boatsb]

unlike you i think most members here are intelligent enough to take the necessary precaution and use common sense when working on electrical system... Neutral is not going to kill you especially since it's often bonded to ground anyway so touching the neutral is pretty much like touching the metal case of the fridge.

But you told him to test continuity to the hot at the outlet. Hot is hot no matter where you are in the circuit it is not a safe way to test. Meters have settings other than voltage.

Unlike you I am not the infallible know it all that thinks he needs show everyone how much he knows all the time.

Maybe you tested too many live circuits like this already so you are immune to the shock but that is not the way to do it.

The first thing a professional would do after plugging in an outlet tester is to shut all power and unplug the boat then tear into the wiring. Turning off the breakers is no guarantee that current is not present.

FWIW even if he is working with the neutral there is still probably 2 hot legs at the panel representing 30-50 amps of 220 which will more than ruin his day. Hit it with a toll or a ring and bad things happen.

I have to ask what are your electrical qualifications?

[eze2bme]

In the 43DC heads that switch might control the 120 v AC light or 120 v AC exhaust fan. There is also a switch to control the 12 v DC light.

[Boatnut]

unlike you i think most members here are intelligent enough to take the necessary precaution and use common sense when working on electrical system... Neutral is not going to kill you especially since it's often bonded to ground anyway so touching the neutral is pretty much like touching the metal case of the fridge.

I have no idea where your head is, but, being the neutral carries the return current , if the neutral is open and you become part of the return path your likely to feel it. Anybody with common sense will always try to trouble shoot the proplem using continuity tests. The only electrical circuit that will not hurt you is the one turned off.

[saltshaker]

first thing to check is that you have power at the breaker, on the out terminal. use a multimeter to check that (red lead on the terminal, black lead to you neutral bus.

if you do then go to the first outlet and check for power. your electrical blue print (if you have them) will show which outlet is the first one in the circuit.

if no power there, the problem can be either with the hot or with the neutral wire. an easy way to test both, is get some wire (single wire, any gauge will do) and connect it to the neutral bus. bring the other end to the outlet you're testing, put the black lead of your meter on that wire and test the outlet again.

if you have power, then you know the problem is with your neutral wire. check the neutral bus to see if you have a loose wire.

if you dont' have power then you're likely to have an issue in the wiring from the panel to that first outlet.

if you're not sure which outlet is the first one in your circuit, then you may have to test each of them individually.

there are two problems with older boats... first over the years owners or "mechanics" may have done some creative wiring and cause issues. like taping into a circuit to feed something, then 20 years later that connection corrodes or comes loose and you dont' know it's even there, somewhere...

the other one is that back then Hatteras didn't use tin wire or shrink tubing on connectors. with years, they get get some corrosion, come loose, etc... you get some arcing in the connector and eventually the connection fails.

the switch is likely a switch for a light. it's fed from the oulet and power is sent to the light fixture. the switch only cuts out the hot. The neutral is probably going straight to the fixture. Again, it may be original or not...

the key to successful electrical troubleshooting is to go step by step, from the source (breaker) testing both wires until you see where one of them goes dead.

I wouldn't make any assumptions with regard to safety and electricity. If he made a mistake and connected that test wire to the hot side, things could get ugly fast. Checking the basics is fine but unless you know someone has knowledge of electrical systems, I would be careful to give advise that could be damaging. The level of DIY abilities varies greatly here, and many things can be more than some members can handle. Most stuff on our boats can be handled be a DIYer but electricity can kill someone. Anyone working on electrical systems needs to be certain they know what they are doing. If someone is asking for help with why an outlet isn't working then I would think that maybe they shouldn't be working on live circuits.

[rsmith]

Hatt taped wires together right from the factory. I had a intermittant breaker trip that went on for years. Found a taped conection that was touching under the forward bunk where no man had gone before (except bubba at the factory)

[Summerscape]

New to this site and want to ask some questions about purchasing a Hatt. How do I go about it?

[Boatsb]

I prefer vintage stetsons but the new custom made ones are fine too.

He spelled HATT with 2 t's therefore he must be looking for a boat.


There are a few of us "in the business" on the site that can help depending on where you are located and what type of boat you are looking for.

Just remember that if you ask 10 people something here you will get 15 answers. We are proud owners and very opinionated about out boats.

[Pascal]

you dno't have to touch anything... turn power off, clip a wire to the Neutral bus with an isolated connector on the other end and you're safe. turn the power back on and check for voltage between the outlet hot and that neutral feed.

i keep forgetting about our resident knit-pickers...

[34Hatt]

you dno't have to touch anything... turn power off, clip a wire to the Neutral bus with an isolated connector on the other end and you're safe. turn the power back on and check for voltage between the outlet hot and that neutral feed.

i keep forgetting about our resident knit-pickers...

You looked into a Mirror.....

Assuming people know what they are doing with electrical testing " or any thing to do with it" is a BAD IDEA.
If they know how to do it they don't ask!!!!!
That is why you have to be VERY careful on what you say!!!!

Oh I forgot who I was talking too


Trying to stop someone from getting shocked is not knit-picking ................

[Boatnut]

you dno't have to touch anything... turn power off, clip a wire to the Neutral bus with an isolated connector on the other end and you're safe. turn the power back on and check for voltage between the outlet hot and that neutral feed.

i keep forgetting about our resident knit-pickers...

Knit picker? Ahhh great response. Your comment about neutral not killing anyone is a total classic. It also tells you have little knowledge of electricity. Common sense dictates you trouble shoot with the power off, even the experts (which you are obviously not) do it.

Due to the rules of the forum, I have to restrain from expressing my true feelings, regarding your less than intelligent suggestions on this matter.