Preparing/painting engine parts

[rsmith]

That works pretty well, but keep away from starter and alternator contacts! ws

Thats how I get the flash bake wrinkle effect.

[Angela]

I crank the engines up when I'm painting. Gets rid of those nasty fuems quick. And the engine heat bakes the paint on.

Well, I have to put the engine back together first, so I'm going to use the slow bake in the oven method. These parts are much easier to paint when they are off the engine. Apparently, whoever did this last, long ago, didn't paint the underside of some of the pipes. I guess they were hard to get at. Some of them have some completely bare spots.

That tranny cooler, the more I think about it - I think it's stainless rather than aluminum. The outside of the plate has a fair amount of surface rust. I understand aluminum won't do that.

[DCMY #92]

Every time I spray paint in the engine room I'm aggravated by the amount of overspray that settles on any uncovered surface. I hadn't considered running the engines as exhaust fans. Mine don't have inlet filters, so I guess I would have to temporarily cover the inlet silencers with A/C filter material to prevent overspray from coating (and roughening the surface) of the blower rotors. If you have inlet filters I suspect you should cover those to prevent having the overspray coat and ruin the elements.

[REBrueckner]

"I understand I have to remove the rust and treat it with something like naval jelly or phosphoric acid .."

Nope..
If you use the RUST ARRESTOR or NAVAL JELLY rust preventative coating, gray during application and dries to black, rust unless loose is left ON.., the chemical coating converts rust to an inert shield helping prevent additional rust.....in the paint dept of Home Depot...instructions say to leave rust on the metal.....works very well...

Cut my painting preparation time by 3/4.....

[fissioneng]

I crank the engines up when I'm painting. Gets rid of those nasty fuems quick. And the engine heat bakes the paint on.

Only if you're not painting the engine I suppose. What about all those moving parts? I would never do this.

[67hat34c]

I also use the alum foil method. I had rocker covers off so covered rockers etc with foil

[Angela]

"I understand I have to remove the rust and treat it with something like naval jelly or phosphoric acid .."

Nope..
If you use the RUST ARRESTOR or NAVAL JELLY rust preventative coating, gray during application and dries to black, rust unless loose is left ON.., the chemical coating converts rust to an inert shield helping prevent additional rust.....in the paint dept of Home Depot...instructions say to leave rust on the metal.....works very well...

When I said "remove the rust", I did mean "knock off the loose stuff" - I see didn't make that clear. I didn't mean to remove every grit. That would be tedious! I have plenty of loose stuff that can be knocked off with a light brushing with a wire wheel. Then, I'll treat what's left.

[yachtsmanbill]

Actually Ange, take a big file and use in like a sharpened scraper. The lead edge is pretty hard and will bust anything loose off with a single pass. If you have a grinder on board, a slight edge makes it work that much better. A wire brush for the initial cleaning is merely rubbing the stuff... ws

[Boatsb]

Or get a sand blaster and really make it clean.

Did the HE parts last month and it worked well.

[Angela]

Are two coats of brushed on paint enough? There are two coats of primer underneath.