Painting the Aluminum Rub Rail

[lumina]

Hi all.

I've decided to revitalize the look of my rub rails. They don't look all that bad, but they have marks and discoloration where things rubbed over time, a couple of scratches, scupper wear, and a milky white look in some spots.

My guys are telling me I'm crazy that it looks fine but I'm one of those guys who sees an imperfection and sees it every day and it makes me crazy.

I had originally thought I'd replace them but Sam's quoted me a price of $700 a 20' length and then I'd have to find someone with the equipment and ability to bend and form them as needed.

A few folks I know tried acids and sanding and clear coatings but it just doesn't look right and it didn't stand up.

I found, on the net, a process that contains sanding, alcohol, special primer and special paint. They (and there customer feedback) says it looks grerat and will stand up.

Thought I might try it BUT before I do I'd like to get your opinions.

[Canuck Dennis]

Here is the process you have to follow to do it right, preferably in vacuum bag.

Sand to the point where ALL imperfections are gone, treat with Alumaprep, per instructions, treat with alodine #1201 per instructions, prime and paint.

Alternative due to area subject to damage.....sand smooth, etch with alodine 1201, prime and paint with Brightsides one part polyeurathene.

[MikeP]

The purpose of a rubrail is to bang/slide/rub, and otherwise impact against pilings, docks, whatever.

Painting a rubrail will ensure it looks even worse unless you take huge pains to ensure that the rubrail never does what it is intended to do. Replace it with SS or leave it alone is my recommendation.

[captddis]

Don't paint the extruded aluminum!! If it looks reasonably good live with it. No matter what you do it will start to blister just like the painted window frames.

I learned the hard way when I insisted that the yard paint my extruded sheer guard on my Bertram. They did everything by the Awlgrip book and it blistered in one month.
If the part does not have corrosion, you may have a chance of success. Myself I would put the money toward a vinyl extrusion and ditch the aluminum.

[yachtsmanbill]

Are yours the aluminum rails that bolt on or are you refering to rub strakes? Personally, I would remove them and replace with rails made by Tom Slane.
BTW.... thats where you know who gets them from. Otherwise to paint them in situ, you are asking for a yearly maintenance issue. Especially with SS or bronze fasteners. They will corrode from behind.
The alternative? Get a scotchbrite wheel for your drill, mask off the paint and give them a "brushed" finish, or polish them down to a mirror. Your call. Coat them with awlclear.
Even on my aluminum boat with the rails welded on, theres an affected area from welding thats hard to hold paint, and thats in fresh water. ws

[lumina]

Hi All,

This is the best picture I could come up with off the cuff.

The aluminum rub rail is appx 2" in hight and depth. It runs around the entire hull and also has a strip down the center of the hull. There are enormous screws every 6 inches.

If I can rejuvinate it through buffing and acids I'm for it.

My research to date has all pointed toward the sand, prime, paint method.

[yachtsmanbill]

Are we talking the same stuff here?
1. Are the rubstakes at the GUN'L 1" stainless steel or aluminum
2. Are the 2X2 rails below the portlites extruded aluminum, or wood capped with SS?
3. Are the rails at the boot stripe wood, aluminum or glass?
4. Are the lower strakes al or SS?
5. Is the aluminum stuff silver or already painted?
6. MIND the termanology here!

If the stuff is al, and painted, you are stuck with that, or replace it with new. If its silver, I would hazard a guess that its anodized. To polish it uniformly, its all gotta be polished or will look like hell in 6 months.

To remove them, I would drill the screw heads off and pound the shanks inside the boat. Let them fall where they may. Install new rails by drilling and tapping for the screws and bed solid with 5200 and paint. For this, you will hafta expect a major paint repair as well, or go slightly larger in size to cover the chipped edges that WILL happen. Thats what I did.

To just polish the al stuff... mask of the painted areas and get handy with a dremel tool, or get GOOD with a pad on a 4 inch grinder. Personally, I would take off the strakes, repair and paint the rails (liberally) and re-install the strakes with a liberal (!) dose of 4000 UV to completely seal the joint, as well as bed 100 per cent of the strakes and screws to help seal the units.

AFAIAC... aluminum with screws doesnt belong on a glass boat especially near the sargossa sea. Howz them apples? ws

[SKYCHENEY]

I have never seen aluminum rub rails on a Hatteras. I thought they were all stainless steel.

[captddis]

Around 73 to74 ish they used an aluminum extrusion against the hull with a ss rubrail over the aluminum. Must have got the idea from Bertram.

[SKYCHENEY]

Around 73 to74 ish they used an aluminum extrusion against the hull with a ss rubrail over the aluminum. Must have got the idea from Bertram.

And steel and aluminum go so well together. In fact, I just finished replacing the aluminum door hinges on my 08 Jeep Wrangler. I'm still wondering what engineer thought that would be a GOOD idea.