Starting engines for first time in ????

[ryanwetzel]

I'm hoping someone with similar experience can give me some pointers before I start these 8v71s up for the first time in who knows how long

So far I have....
1. Polished the fuel
2. Installed new fuel filters
3. Change the oil (new filters too)
4. Removed the impellers
5. Installed new batteries
6. Tested the shutdown solenoids

Is there anything else, besides crossing my fingers/toes, you can do to get them ready for first start?

And can I run these for 5-10 min with no raw water? The antifreeze is full.

[MikeP]

When you start them, hold the shut-down buttons so they won't start for 5-6 seconds as they crank. This will help the oil to get where it needs to be before the full pressure of the cylinders firing occurs.

Running the engines for a while with no impellers won't be a problem as long as the internal coolant systems are working and have coolant. It would probably take a LOOOONG time for coolant temps to get anywhere near hot without a load. But, of course, watch the temp gauges - manual ones in the engine room are nice...

[bostonhatteras]

crank the engines with the shut down buttons depressed for 30 seconds or so, let them rest for a minute and do this again a couple times. This will do a couple things. 1, the rack will be in 'no fuel' position obviously keeping the engines from starting. 2, the pistons and rings sliding up and down will warm the combustion chambers leading to a quicker start when you do add fuel. 3, the slow cranking will fill the oil galleries with oil so nothing is dry when it eventually starts. the shut down button trick is long established and used by a lot of operators. one more thing that is advisable is to pour 1 gallon of oil over each rack-valve springs/stems, and all the other mechanisms under the valve covers. these parts are mainly oiled by 'splash' and it may take some time for them to recieve lube. DDC allows a controlled amount of ether to start engines when very cold, this may help if the fuel system is quite dry. use the parallel switch when cranking to actually start them and place the throttle about 1/5 open. run up to 1000 rpm for a minute then idle them after they start. high idle is not recommended for any lenght of time. you may experience a 'rolling' idle otherwise known as 'hunting'. I would expect a certain measure of this if the engines have not run for a long time. when finally put into use it probably will go away if not it is a govornor issue and a job for a trained ddc mechanic. 10 minutes without raw water may be too long, 5 min ok. do you have a mechanic? I think your in mass so you have the option of Lew Bacon or Steve's shop. both are good, Lew does more pleasure vessels and Steves does alot of crew boats ferries etc

[ryanwetzel]

Both great advice. I have talked to Steve, but no need to bring a mechanic just yet. Again fingers crossed. Might get in touch with Lew if Steve is busy.

[Pascal]

test the air doors in case they run away...

[Boatsb]

oil is the big issue. Crank the engines with the shutdowns for at least 3 or 4 30 second cycles and charge the batteries between them. The starters will get hot so give them time to cool.

Check the battery hot and ground at the starter too.

When you are ready to fire one make sure the air door is open. Make sure the exhaust is clear and do not run more than a minute or two without cooling water. No need to take a chance.

[MikeP]

I made an assumption I should not have...

Do you know if the engine is free (not seized up)? If you don't already know this, I would bar the engine over by hand for one full revolution before engaging the starter at all.

[ryanwetzel]

Turned over the port engine one-half no problem. Will do one full rev on both before I try to start.

[dastahl]

Make sure someone is holding the stop button or holding the rack back before you try to turn the motor over. It might start on the first compression and then you are in big trouble.
Skooch

[Avenger]

I know there's some duplicates here, but I didn't want to forget anything:

Pull the valve covers off and make sure the racks are free. Bar them over by hand at least one turn. Crank at intervals with the stops engaged until you start to see some oil pressure (this will probably take a while). Then you're go for main engine start.

If your temperature gauges work you should be able to run for a fair amount of time without raw-water. Just make sure that the gauges actually work. You might want to have a Raytek handy. It also wouldn't hurt to have something handy to block the intakes unless they've got air doors, just in case. Good luck and have fun!