Welcome to the Hatteras Owners Forum & Gallery. Sign Up or Login

Enter partial or full part description to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog (for example: breaker or gauge)
+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 56
  1. #31

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    It's a bit late for this...but there is a solution that un-bonds polyurethane adhesives such as 5200. It is called Anti-Bond and boating stores have it, at least West does. It helps somewhat.

  2. #32

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Doug,

    Why only 3 rings of GFO and not 4 ? I am getting ready to do the packing on this Wed. What made you decide to go with only 3?

    I have been out a week now working on my Naiad stabilizers...what a pain in the arse. Had to remove and replace bearings and seals...so much for their "life-time seals" claim. The seals were fine, they just allowed water in to get at the bearings. Also had to replace both seacocks for my mains. By the way I found that some yard-bird put my water pick-up stariners on with inch long screws and penetrated the inside of the hull, causing local delamination. Had to dig it out, dry it and epoxy back fill. Mike

  3. #33

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Mike,

    Genesis put 3 rings on his, the GFO package said three, and there was just enough GFO in one package to do three.

    I didn't try to adjust my log hose (too scary in the water!) so I'm interested in yours. There was a lot of downward pressure on the gland, pushing it closer at the top as we discussed. I found that by placing the GFO on a very smooth flat surface and pounding it a little flatter with a hammer, that I could get it squeezed in easier at the top where it's tight. You carefully remember which side was on the flat surface (I used the GFO label side as a marker) and put that side of the GFO against the shaft so there are no "dents" from the hammer on the shaft sealing surface.

    If I were out of the water, I'd loosen just the aft hose clamps and try to spin my whole gland and hose 180 degrees so any hose droop is now upward pressure. If the hose is straight, then the problem is in the shaft log design, as you indicated. ("Shaft Log" is that fiberglass, log shaped, hose holder that the shaft goes through as a through-hull in the boat. On a bare hull, it looks like a log.)

    Tell me how it goes.

    Doug Shuman

  4. #34

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Doug, thanks for the info. I can get a finger in the bottom gap on the log, the top sits right on the shaft. I'll try to give it a go with your idea of reversing the packing gland 180 deg., assuming I can get the log hose loose with out tearing it up. I want to avoid removing the coupling from the shaft...that is a real pain. I'll keep you all posted on my success or failure... thanks, mike

  5. #35

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Mike,

    If you can't spin it 180 - I used a 2" dia. 3 ft. long pipe placed on the hull and against the bottom of the gland as a lever to lift it up to get the GFO in. I would think that a car scissor jack with one or two bricks as a base might hold it in any position more easily, or even lift it after you undo the clamps. You'd have to be careful not to apply too much force with the scissor jack.

    Doug

  6. #36

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Am reading w/ interest this thread as after my last run I have developed a 2 drip per second leak on the port shaft log. BTW I noted that the shaft did not use to turn while in neutral, then began to slowly turn and after the last run began to leak. The logs were previously almost completely dry. I have enclosed a picture of the culprit (the actual shaft log does not have any letters on it, ha ha) but I would just like to confirm that it is letters A - D that I am cranking down on to stem the flow.

    Also, what kind of operating temps should I expect and where exactly should I read off? Shaft, log etc...

    Thank you for the FIX YOUR HATT BY THE NUMBERS lesson.

  7. #37

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Here is the picture. Thanks
    Attached Images

  8. Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Nope - it is "E" and "F" you turn to cinch down the packing.

    The others are the log hose clamps - if they're tight leave 'em alone. Cranking them won't stop the leaking if its the packing.

    (PS: Nice spray deflector on the shaft! I like it!)

    PPS: Next time you CHANGE the packing run a nut down each of those long studs BEFORE you put the collar on. That way you can use them to jack off the collar the next time you need to get in there to change it. Its a royal bitch to get it out otherwise....

  9. #39

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Karl,

    OK.

    Doug
    Last edited by Nonchalant1; 05-07-2005 at 09:37 PM.

  10. Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Now now, let's keep it clean around here....

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts