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  1. #11

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    I would think that you would have to have the packing spinning in a bunch. With a loose glan nut,to cause the whole shaft log to run off center. Bill

  2. #12

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    OK, I'm going to be the wet blanket here.....I would not do a procedure on the boat which I hadn't done before, involving opening the bilge to seawater, without being at least once familiar with it. AT least make sure everything else is totally okay before starting this. The thing that bothers me is that this isn't a routine change of packing material- he's doing it because it's not acting right and running hot. This isn't the one to learn on, if you ask me, especially with the boat in the water.
    If you're determined to do it in the water, do it at the marina and make sure they know about it so if you need an emergency haulout, you have a prayer of it. OR, do it in the lift well over lunch when they haven't got a boat in the slings, so if they need to haul you out pronto, they can do it. I realize I sound like an old lady. Sorry.

  3. Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Naw, if something goes dramatically wrong stuff a towel in there and head for a lift on the good shaft/engine. You can easily stuff enough in there to slow the water to a trickle, and if you have working pumps this is not a big deal.

  4. #14

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    OK, Karl, you are braver than I am....

  5. Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Is that or is it ?

  6. #16

    packing method for less water intrusion

    Jim,

    With some saran wrap, a towel and some duct tape, you can totally stop ANY water from coming in past the shaft while you repack. I repacked our 53's stuffing boxes this weekend. I don't think I got more than one gallon of water in the boat - total from both shafts.

    I wrapped the towel with saran wrap, moved the packing gland up the shaft, wrapped the saran wrap/towel around the shaft/packing box with the saran wrap against the shaft/box and taped it. The only water that comes in occurs as you are removing/replacing the gland itself.

    Actually, not that much water comes in anyway, certainly not enough to be concerned about if, as G says, the bilge pumps are working. On my previous boat I never worried about it and the amount water that came in never even raised the float switch enough to activate the pump. I wasn't sure about this with the 53 since it was my first experience with this boat but I don't think I'd bother with wrapping next time.

    I used regular packing instead of GFO because there is a 50 ft spool of it on the boat. If I didn't have it, I'd go with the GFO..

  7. #17

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    My tube has a "droop" to it so the gland is not perfectly centered around the shaft. It's close to the shaft on the top and farther away on the bottom. I figured I'll loosen the aft end hose clamps and reposition the tube so it's straight when I have the packing material out to pack the gland. Maybe that's a reason to do this hauled?

    Doug

  8. #18

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    i was also aprehensive the first time around but it turned out to be pretty easy. plus on the 53MY they are easy to reach.

    i used standard packing the first time around without any special tool and it took a while to get the old stuff out. It still leaked so i redid it with GFO and the proper extractor tool (flexible corckscrew...) : Much easy.

    the nice thing about the GFO is that it doens't require any grease which make the hwole experience very unpleasant as that special lubircant sticks to your hands...

    the port still drips a little but i don't want to overtightened it as i found that one of the 2 bolt had some stripped threads forcing me to add a second nut. not ideal but it will do for now. Shaft may have been scored in the past, we'll see whenver i have to haul out the boat.

    I 'm pretty sure i used 1/2 on my 1970 53my but one package isn't enough for 1 gland. I think it took 4 rings so 3 packages neeeded for both engines. check the size of one ring, x 4, you get 30" per package

    my port side gland isnt' aligned very well either but I'm reluctant to mess up with the clamps in water...
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  9. Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    I used three rings on my mains. I could get a forth one in there, but didn't see the need, as the three didn't leak.

  10. #20

    Re: Changing prop shaft gland packing

    Just pulled our 53MY on Moday, pulled the packing today and found the same poor alignment problem. It was tight on top, lose on the bottom of the gland. When looking at the bottom I noticed that the log angle cut out is set up to accomidate a shallower angled shaft. I believe Hatt designed the log to work with both the 58' and 53' hull. The log angle appears to be set up for the 58', it may be a compromise. I will also try to reposition the log hose but I am not hopeful. By the way the log takes 1/2" packing, i am using GFO.

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