Well guys, it just got more ugly on my port engine as well. The port trans shaft and flange splines are ok, BUT the shaft bearing is trashed. I am now personaly into the gear box changing out the double row ball bearing. With respect to hours, the boat has about 3800 hrs on the engines and drive train. I have found that the aft engine mounts have settled about 3/8" to 1/2" on the verticle, thay are ok on the horzontal axis. What is interesting the origional DD docs. describe these mounts as an optional - "resilent type mount". On closer inspection there is a bonded elastomer that appears to have delaminated. My new mounts are PYI 1200 lbs units. I am welding up brackets using 1" x 2 1/2" flat bar bent at 90 deg and attached to the trans, and for the front I am welding the same to the existing brackets. In addition I am adding the vibration spacer between the two flanges. What really tic's me off is I paid a heafty price for a survey that states the mounts are in " good condition" and "no excess movement found on sea trials". Further on closer inspection I found the Stbd flang coupler to have a recently added seal serface repair seleve and oversize seal. What is really telling is that I also found hidden in the port engine room a simular new un-used repair kit. The first sign of a problem short of vibration, is oil sling out between the two flanges. If this happens the game is over, because for this type of oil failure to occur the slinger-ring between the flange and driven shaft gear may be damaged, and or the retainer nut (which seals the oil in) has lost it's 280 ft/lb torque preload, which in turn is evidence of either a bearing or spline coupling failure. FYI if you need to remove the shaft coupler because it's a morris taper, I strongly recomend renting a Porto-power, just place a small 2 1/2" ram between the two flanges with 2 - 5 1/2" long 5/8" grade 8 bolts and pump, they both poped easly. I tryed the same clamping approach by tightening all 6 grade 8 flange bolts with a spacer between the flanges, and no success. Regarding alignment, I found one way to check it is to remove the coupler and spot the center line of the shaft to the center line of the transmission, it's a pain but I believe it works, assuming your shaft bearings are ok.

By the way does any one know the location of the set secrews that hold in the cutless- bearings located at the engine end? Mike