Simple Prop Removal Tool

[Nonchalant1]

I had props changed at a yard in Sarasota and was amazed to see a guy pop the old props off easily with a big bronze nut device. It was simply a heavy bronze tube with threads on the inside on one end that match the prop shaft and capped on the other end with heavy solid bronze. He took the prop nuts off, screwed the big bronze tube on and hit the end of it with a handheld sledge. The props popped loose easily. I asked if that could affect the thrust bearings and he said that they're made to take much more thrust in that direction easily.

Have you guys used or seen these? It's a ton easier and much more simple than the prop puller I have always used.

Doug Shuman

[SKYCHENEY]

I can't really visualize it. Do you have any pictures?

[Nonchalant1]

Sky - no pics, but it just looks like a big thick bronze pipe, about 8 inches long and 4 inches wide with a 2" threaded hole in one end and closed on the other end with a heavy bronze cap. You screw it on, I believe a little short of actually touching the prop and hit it hard with an 8 lb sledge hammer, held in one hand on an 8 inch hammer handle. I was amazed to see them pop right off, because I've seen hydraulic prop pullers and all kinds of other heavy bolt & plate pullers that take time and work, but this took about 15 seconds.

I think that this prop puller is made by General Propeller in Bradenton, FL where I took my backup props to be tuned. These guys do lots of HUGE fancy props, have PropScan, etc. and also sell Propsmith and Algonac pullers.

I asked it this thing could be used underwater and he said it could, but the sound of hitting it under water would probably be bad for a diver's ears.

Doug

[SKYCHENEY]

So all of the force of the blow is taken by the threads on your shaft? Then the shock from the impact breaks the prop free from the taper? Sounds like it wouldn't be too good for the shaft, the threads, or the transmission.

[captddis]

I have one of the nut knockers. They work great1 I think I paid 125.00 for it from C+B Propellor. I will post a pic.

[Nonchalant1]

So all of the force of the blow is taken by the threads on your shaft? Then the shock from the impact breaks the prop free from the taper? Sounds like it wouldn't be too good for the shaft, the threads, or the transmission.

I wouldn't have any concern about the shaft threads because it uses all of the threads on a 2 inch stainless steel shaft against a bronze nut. The bronze would deform if anything would. The thrust bearings would be the only concern, but as he said, they're made to take large thrust in that direction.

[captddis]

[captddis]

[mike]

I can't think of a better way of berneling the transmission thrust bearing. On the Allison’s the bearing is marginal already, esp. if you have the ball-bearing configuration. It's less of an issue with the tapered roller bearing units, but still it is not a good practice. I rather pay the yard fee to use an appropriate puller, than risk damage to a transmission that will cost north of $5k to fix and install.

[captddis]

I can't think of a better way of berneling the transmission thrust bearing. On the Allison’s the bearing is marginal already, esp. if you have the ball-bearing configuration. It's less of an issue with the tapered roller bearing units, but still it is not a good practice. I rather pay the yard fee to use an appropriate puller, than risk damage to a transmission that will cost north of $5k to fix and install.

Then when the puller won't budge it the yard wacks it with a sledge.