Racor loosing prime

[GOLE IV]

The check valve that I refer is inside the tank at the end of the dip leg. I gess the idea to switch tank is a good one.

good luck

[TopHattandTails]

Problem solved. Rebuild kit made all the difference.

[Skip]

I think your Raycor might be getting airbound (small air leak since it will be a vacuum from the engine). Check your drain valve- I replaced one to stop a very small air leak. You can either buy replacement parts (they are cheap), or swap the two engine room parts out to see if the problem migtates...
good luck
Skip

[TopHattandTails]

Problem was a dirty Racor. The inside was a mess - the little check ball was stuck in the up position due to all of the sludge that was caught in it. A $9 rebuild kit and a thorough rinsing was all that was needed. Been fixed with no issues for several months now.

[lumina]

Hi, It's Gene of Glittering Image.......We had the exact same symptoms on our port engine and it ended up being the ball inside the filter. It had a bit of junk on it, just enough to let it siphon out over a few days or a week.

Got the kit, installed it and everything’s been "A" ok with it for at least 10 months.

[Vincentc]

After cleaning the Racor bowls and turbines of the black alge, the engines developed the same sympton of losing prime.

Spent all day yesterday rebuilding 4 Racors. I only have 3 but had to do one 2x. I seemed pretty simply but took much longer than expected. While I was in the neighborhood, I also disassembled and cleaned the airbox drain cannisters.

The 1000's were mounted too close to the deck and had to be raised. Also they need to be upside down when you reassemble, in order to hold the bowl gasket in place, otherwise the gasket will fall out of the slot, and leak. I speak from experience.

On the other hand the bowl gasket for the Racor 500 for the generator will stay in place with the filter right side up.

I did not disconnect the Racors from their hoses. I could not find a swivel on any of the hose connections.

I would also share the fact that the check ball gasket should be mounted smooth side toward the ball. The 1000 instructions to not specify, but the 500 instruction does. There is a nice set of photos regarding a Racor rebuild on this site: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/r..._racor_&page=1

I am pondering the purpose of the check ball. I don't think it is for water, since it floats in diesel fuel.

[yachtsmanbill]

That ball floats in WATER too... when the bowl is full it will cause a shutdown. The real checkvalves are on the fuel inlet side on the line. Take those apart and clean them too. Drain the racor first!!
Also make sure the T handle gasket is OK. ws



check valve is on the right side

[Vincentc]

Thanks Bill.

I have priming pumps and bypass valves upstream of the Racors. The pumps are connected to the fuel lines by 3/8 heavy gasoline/alcohol rated black hose. I decided to flush out the priming pumps and connected the pump with 3/8 clear tubing (from Lowes) to a 5 gallon can of diesel and tank cleaner.

I like being able to see the fuel flow to and from the pump and observe if I am pumping fuel and if there is any air in the fuel. Is there a clear hose that is safe to use with diesel fuel?

[yachtsmanbill]

Use the soda pop hose... its clear with a nylon web re-inforcement. Use it for a test as its probably not fuel rated (insurance wise!). Thats what I use for fuel polishing jobs. I wouldnt use it for the run from the fuel pump TO the secondary spin on. Thats 60+psi and warm usually. You wont see air anyway. If you would see air in it, it wont run. Hmmm ws