1965 41 DCMY Refit

[q240z]

While doing so I found a USCG reference that says the side lights must be mounted "above the hull" and a minimum of 3' below the 120 degree white light. I don't recall seeing anything about midship versus forward for the 120 degree light, but it did say that the white light must be a minimum of 3" above the side lights. So - it sounds like your set up is not legal.

The CG regs apply only to boats made after the reg was put in place. My Connie has the original running lights in the hull, but they are "grandfathered in" because the build date precedes the reg requiring them above the hull.

[DCMY #92]

I'm more concerned with visibility of the lights than technical compliance with the rules.

[DCMY #92]

The side cabin windows should arrive any day now. The forward window openings are getting their detailed finishing in preparation for the removable solid panels.

[Sparky1]

Forgive me for asking what may be a dumb question, but why do you want removable solid panels where your original glass was?

Not being critical, just curious.

[DCMY #92]

I had several reasons to replace the forward center saloon windows with solid panels. They have not been as hard to keep leak free as the side and corner windows, but they have routinely developed small leaks. Since I'm going to all this trouble and expense to stop window leaks, I figured I may as well get them all. I think one reason is that the aluminum frame expands and contracts more than the fiberglass - eventually breaking the caulk's seal. I suppose I could have through bolted the outer frame to improve the clamping force of the frame to the boat beyond that possible with just #8 screws into the fiberglass/wood structure. I also had leaks in the gaskets between the frames from time to time.

I need the forward window openings to get the refrigerator in and out when it needs replacing and to get the saloon sofa and chair in and out. So, I couldn't just glass up the holes like I did with the corners.

Every chance I get I like to lighten the boat for improved performance. The new panels will be lighter than the frames and glass.

Allot of heat from the sun radiates from the forward windows. I have used foam insulating board on the inside to keep it cooler, but this has probably made the differential expansion between the aluminum and the fiberglass worse by making the frames hotter. The solid panels will transmit much less heat.

I have always keep curtains over the inside of the front windows and a Sunbrella cover over the outside. With the modifications the inside will be upholstered. I will probably retain the Sunbrella outer cover just for the look, or I may paint the area instead. It depends on how tight the seams on the new panels are. The panels will be flush on the outside, so the bumps under the Sunbrella cover from the window frames will no longer be there.

[Sparky1]

Your explanation of having the ability to remove items from the boat was the only one I could come up with, so maybe my question wasn't that dumb after all. Hoisting the fridge up and across the deck is something you'll need to post a video of when the time comes.

I like the way my front windows were glassed in and bow seating with storage beneath was done. Click on the link in my signature if you want to see it. Speaking of seeing things, I'd love to see your boat when I come to FL for Christmas. Let me know if you think that might be possible.

[DCMY #92]

The new windows arrived a couple of weeks ago. Here are a couple of photos of them being dry fit. They will be removed for topside prep and painting, then bedded and installed.

Years ago I moved the stern flag mast socket from the aft escape hatch to the transom. This resulted in the flag mast being near horizontal. I have also attached a photo of depression in the transom that has been created to restore the flag mast to the proper angle.

[DCMY #92]

The holidays slowed work on Loose Change, but the crew back at work designing and fabricating a new radar/electronics mast before painting the topsides. Once the topsides are painted the saloon windows will be installed and the interior work begun.

The photo attached is a mold plug being constructed by Rivolta for a new sailboat model they will offer. I have not previously seen a mold plug and how it is built. It's just like model boats I built years ago. I'm told the station frames were cut on a CNC machine by a contractor for $3500 including the plywood. Then the scrap left over was used for the supports between frames. I would have guessed it would have cost allot more than that. It is going to be interesting to watch as this mold is constructed.

It's refreshing to see a boat company investing in tooling for a new model with the dire predictions for our economy. It makes you wonder if it is, or will be, as bad as the media seems to hope.

[Boatsb]

It's incredible how much work goes into the plug. After the frames set the shape it needs to be skinned and smoothed. All the dimensions get double checked before they start with the mold layup. The mold is a ton more work before it's ready to produce a boat. In today's market this is a major investment. I wish them all the best in their new model. Keep the boat building alive in the US.

[DCMY #92]

I also wish them (and other US boat builders) the best. I have to admit that since the the press and Congress started telling us that the economy was toast that I have thought about the nightmare of going down to check on the boat one day and finding the shop locked up and out of business with Loose Change still inside. I can't tell you how elated I was to see this new tooling being fabricated. In addition, the shop now has double the number of boats in for refit. There are some very interesting boats among them. One is a pristine fresh water only 1969 Bertram 20 something foot center console. It's in for repowering. I understand very few of this model were built. I'll try to get a photo and post it.