Re: brush painting Awlgrip
Jim, what slip did you end up in at Piney? I'll be there on Apr 20; I'll be glad to give you a hand if you are still there doing work.
As you know, KJ (F dock) did my nonskid two years ago and did a superb job. He'd be a good resource for techniques/advice. But I'm not sure if he will be back at the marina during the timeframe - I can't recall when he/Judy are coming back from FL.
Re: brush painting Awlgrip
I think it's going to be D-12 but she's going to tell me for certain once my boat goes in. Which shouldn't be too long. I was over at Smith's today and asked them to get it ready STAT and let me know when it's going in.
Re: brush painting Awlgrip
Along the lines of prep has anyone ever removed the bow rail stantions? Geeze they are held in by three screws each. What could go wrong? :p
Seriously, how well do the bolts holding things like cleats and stantions come out?
Re: brush painting Awlgrip
They are through bolted on many of the SF's with access above and outside the headliner but it takes 2 people to get the nuts off. Some of the MY have threaded bolts into plates under the glass.
Re: brush painting Awlgrip
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dan mapes
along the lines of prep has anyone ever removed the bow rail stantions? Geeze they are held in by three screws each. What could go wrong? :p
seriously, how well do the bolts holding things like cleats and stantions come out?
snap!!!!!
Re: brush painting Awlgrip
When I first removed them years ago I had a lot of trouble; the bolts used at the factory were bronze, and they had all wasted away from electrolysis. I had to drill out almost all of them.
After that I used SS bolts, and no problems. The rail and bases have been off since then, about 12-14 years ago for a paint job, and they came out without too many difficulties. This time, though, I am just going to tape all that off and paint around them.
Re: brush painting Awlgrip
If you have compressed air for sanding and clean up the job may be doable. The problem with rolling/brushing is getting the primer on. By the time you sand the brush marks or roller stipple out you don't have much primer left. I just bought two quarts of awlgrip primer but I havn't had time to try it. The 545 primer doesn't roll out that well. I ended up stripping the non-skid. It was eating up sandpaper as fast as I could change it. The primer I just got was awlquip.
Re: brush painting Awlgrip
Agree, it is impossible to apply Algrip primer with out spraying. BUT, do you need to prime an already painted boat? When a pro did my trawler, he did not use primer and the job still looked perfect when I sold it six years later most of which was full time liveaboard/cruising.
Bob
Re: brush painting Awlgrip
Quote:
Originally Posted by
SeaWhisper
I agree with rsmith on this one!!. I ended up taking a obrital sander and 60 grit to get my old non skid off!!! But I have to mention an observation that I saw this past summer! A couple of painters back in July was working on a hatt two slips down. . What caught my attention was, they were scubbing a fresh painted deck (10 days old) with a course brush and soft scrub. What had happend was the deck was painted with the wrong white shade of color. I just couldn't walk away without asking... Don't you need to sand the non skid off the deck and start over? Their reply was, this method had the same effect as using 400 grit sand paper. So after a day of scrubing, and two days later, they rolled a new shade of white to match. It's been 8 months and the boat will be returning from the Bahama's in a couple of weeks... So what say the painters?
Yes you can do that actually Sterling paint suggest using comet and a sponge or light scrub brush. I have done it to faded paint jobs must have been over 12 years ago paint still sticking.
Re: brush painting Awlgrip
Quote:
Originally Posted by
bobk
Agree, it is impossible to apply Algrip primer with out spraying. BUT, do you need to prime an already painted boat? When a pro did my trawler, he did not use primer and the job still looked perfect when I sold it six years later most of which was full time liveaboard/cruising.
Bob
If the surface still is good and not beat to crap and oxidized badly you don't need to prime. Just read the application guides of any paint your going to use then when your done reading, do it again!
Really each time you will pick up on some more tips Awlgrip has a nice little book I think its $5 to $8 for it