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I'm concerned about the age of a rubber exhaust hose on my 1976 42-foot convertible.
Is there a rubber hose from the back of the muffler to the fiberglass exhaust tube?
It would be between the fuel tank and the hull, so maybe I need to cut the deck to change it.
Anyone encounter this issue? Thanks.
I had a 41c. My exhaust left the muffler, laid in 2 plywood cradles between the fuel tank and the hull. Sagged a little between the cradles, but not too much to trap water, then double clamped on the exhaust pipes going though the transom. My exhaust flanges were brass, not fiberglass.
I could lay across the steering rams, behind the aft of the fuel tank, above the rudder posts and do a visual inspection with a flash light. Now these hoses never receive hot exhaust gases unless you blow a water pump and receive exhaust only. I never had an issue, but a friend did.
He had a backfire, and the force blew the port hose off of his exhaust flange. He had an older Egg Harbor with similar exhausts. But his were at the water line, so water started pouring in immediately. Almost sunk until I jumped over and shoved shop towels in the flange. That was a 4 inch hole pouring in water.
After that I learned how to inspect with a flashlight. I do the inspection on all of my boats.
Ironically, this is the same friend I lost years later when his Egg broke up off of Hatteras. I have written about this before here, so I will not go on.
Good luck,
Hope this helps.
Tim
Hello, on my 42 the only hose is in the engine room I believe. The pipe to the transom is fiberglass. You can crawl behind the fuel tanks to look at them, one of those smart phone cameras would be useful too.
Walt Hoover
I'll bet there's a short hose between the transom and the muffler pipe to deal with stress cracking--could be wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by whoover
A 50 something went down at the dock a couple of years back. They backed her down hard going in and the water pressure blew the hose at the transom. They never knew it until the list began and by then it was way too late. It's hard to check those hoses and clamps for corrosion all the way around, but it's worth the effort.
I m not familiar with the boat but i doubt th muffler is attached directly without a section of hose. Part of my repower we are uograding the exhaust to 8" and we are putting a section of nose there.
In any case, anyone with original 70s or even 80s vintage hose really should inspect them. Mines were completly collapsed.
I replaced my engines in the 41c, twice, many years ago. There was rubber hose leaving the riser through the aft engine room bulkhead, into a cigar shaped muffler, rubber hose leaving the muffler supported by 2 plywood cradles, then clamped onto the exhaust passing through the transom. They were sandwiched pretty good between the tank and boat side, but we could get hands on above the rudder posts and assy.
Around the hose going through the engine room bulkhead, there was a 2 piece aluminum fairing to support the hose, and reduced the size of the hole to create a seal which was screwed into the aft bulkhead.
When time to remove all, we removed the hose clamps from the transom exhaust, and off of the engine risers, and the aluminum fairings. A sawsall helped enlarge the pass through on the engine room bulkhead for the larger diameter muffler, and the entire assembly passed forward into the engine room. After breaking down all components, we could pass them out of the engine room hatch.
When time for the new engines, we repeated the process but in reverse, and a AC company made me new fairings to cover the larger holes we introduced.
Now my exhaust hoses were wire reinforced, so a collapse was never visible.
However, after Russ' boat almost sank after his blew off, I check mine all of the time. That includes all hoses.
Hope this helps
Tim
What Tim said. It's not easy, but it's easier from the engine room.
Thanks for all the comments. Mine are probably original 1976 so it's time to change out.
I was just wondering how to go about it.
Don't forget changing to new hose clamps, they're 42 years old too. Make sure to get the good all SS ones.
I have a 38FBDC from 1974. Both hoses was changed in 1999. Last year I saw water dripping in the middle of one hose. Outside they looked wery good but the inside was a mess and was soon going to colapse. Im glad I choose to buy new hoses. 20 years is to long time.
Check for cracks in the fiberglass under where the hose clamps are. I found one that must have been leaking intermittently!
The hose and clamps appeared to have been changed but I have no records of this when I bought the boat a year and a half ago. Apparently it is easy to crack the fiberglass tubes from over zealous tightening of the hose clamps as has been discussed on this forum before.
Jon
Ideally there should be a stainless steel sleeve inside the fiberglass tube where the hose is clamped. This is what we re doing in mine
mr. johnny, centek makes the stainless sleeves and i do highly recommend them. i replaced my hoses and they did not have sleeves in the original setup. i couldn't get the leaks stopped because the fiberglass tubes were starting to crush. i installed the sleeves and have had no problem since. i used the trident silicone hose, more expensive but much easier to work with
Big Bill,Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbill
Do you mean these:
http://www.centekindustries.com/prod...crush-sleeves/
According to the installation guide, they are inserted inside the fiberglass tube using 5200.
On my boat, the gap between the fiberglass tubes was only an 1" or so which leads me to believe that this was done in the factory 36 years ago. The rubber boot was in surprisingly good condition. I had to cut out a small section of fiberglass where the crack was and then I installed the new rubber boot. I tightened the hose clamps a little bit at a time...carefully! It hasn't leaked since.
I plan on replacing the 3 other joints that I found on my boat with silicone hose as well with these sleeves!
Thanks for the information Big Bill!
Jon
The taiwan built boat i used run didnt have the crush sleeves in the collectors just past the risers where the 12" silicon joint were clamped. All 4 (2 per engine) always leaked, had to repair the cracked glass on tow of them at some point.
Thanks for the info on the sleeves.
I do plan to use silicone hose.
Pascal,Quote:
Originally Posted by Pascal
I never knew about what a crush sleeve was until you mentioned them.
Before that I would have figured they were something my teenage daughters were all excited about some boy and his shirt!
Jon
I didn't used the name till somebody mentioned it. :). I called them inserts.
On the 41c there is plenty of room to get outside of the fuel tanks and inspect the exhaust.....if one is flexible and under 200lbs lol.
On thing I will never understand on any boat is having the exhaust in the transom exist at or below the water line. Think of all the boats that wouldn't have sunk if the exhaust discharge was just a few inches higher.
These "mufflers" have a built in swing check valve, but they don't muffle as much as I'd like. Maybe one day I'll replace them. Any ideas?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1D...=w1030-h772-no
Tim, What type off mufflers did you put on on your 41C. I need to replace my originals as one is cracking. I still am running the 8V53Ns so I don't need an upgrade but a bit quieter would be nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fish Tales
Jim
1968 41' Mermaid
What holds them in place? Or is the pressure of the clamp through the fiberglass enough to do that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pascal
Thanks.
Krush, not sure that's a muffler, think could be a flapper check valve only. Have a much smaller one in our genset exhaust between the exhaust elbow and the lift muffler.
Who makes the flapper check valves for exhaust systems ? :..……...Pat
They are sized to be a tight fit then the pressure from the T clanks helps tooQuote:
Originally Posted by oscarvan
I had to get some made and installed on the lazzara 84 I run, with C32s. While replacing the 15” diameter hose between the engine and the fiberglass pipe, the mechanic over tightened the T clamps and cracked the glass. Ended up adding crush sleeve on both sides.
Exhaust check valves from Centek, biggest they have is 6"
Lots of good stuff on their www.
https://www.centekmarine.com/products/
Link to the check valves
https://www.centekmarine.com/product.../check-valves/
1986 63 MY. I need to change the exhaust hose connector between the tube and forward end of the muffler. On my model,
I have good starboard side access to the inboard and top side of the hose via the cabinet under the master
head. The hose id 10" id, 13" long and best I can guess is 6-7" between the fiberglas ends. I have clearance
to slide the hose forward on the tube, but not back on the muffler. Trying to figure the easiest way to remove. I
might can cut it in half with a sawzall, but thinking I can slit the hose, with a Dremel, along its length over
the tube end and slide forward 3-4". Ideas and tips welcome.
Replacing with silicone hose. Suggestions for source for 10" ID hose?
John McCarley
Water Colors - 1986 63 MY
Wrightsville Beach NC
I need to do similar work, my guess is that the riser needs to be removed from the turbos and the tube moved forward into the engine room. It would be easier to cut the hose in two and then install the new hose with the tube pulled back . I suspect that I have a crushed tube, I was assuming the I needed to replace the tube and then put a stainless insert into the tube. Pascal mentioned just putting an insert would work, if the tube is cracked, would it be water tight after the insert is in place?
The guy on here with the Masterplan Miami YouTube channel did a video on replacing the exhaust hose on his 58YF. You might try to find that. John
All done. Exhaust is 2" deep in seawater, plugged with a couple of shopping bags filed with play sand.
Used razor knife to cut flap in top side of old exhaust hose. Used small drill pump to remove about 16
gallons of seawater. Caught the remaining gallon in a pan when I loosened the t-bolt clamps. Old hose
was easily cut with razor knife. Both the tail end of the exhaust tube and leading end of muffler had
been cracked by overtightening. A previous fiberglas repair had failed on one pipe. There was only 1"
between ends, I cut back the tail of the exhaust pipe 3" to provide more installation clearance. I then
ground back damage along cracks with a side grinder (see pic). Prepped and filled crack with thickened epoxy.
Added fiberglas cloth 6" on either side of crack on outside and inside of tubes ends. After curing, used
soapy water and easily installed silicone hose and clamps.
John McCarley
Water Colors - 1986 63MY
Wrightsville Beach NC