Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Reefgeorge
If I do replace the entire core, it would seem that I need something along the edges for the screws to bite into besides coring or the end grain of marine plywood so the teak strips or fiberglass flat stock seems reasonable. Would poured thickened epoxy like Scott suggested also hold screws well?
Epoxy is hard which equals brittle. It is not what I would want to be screwing into really. Will it hold? yeah. Will end grain plywood hold? yeah.
If you wanted to get really tricky with it you could rip a few thin strips of marine ply and put them on the screw hole edges where the face of the plywood would be out to contact the screws.
Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
Epoxy is not brittle when done right. End grain plywood is one of the worst choices. Worse than end grain wood.
Reefer where are you located?
Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Boatsb
Epoxy is not brittle when done right. End grain plywood is one of the worst choices. Worse than end grain wood.
Reefer where are you located?
How much thickened epoxy would it take to fill that void? Which filler would you thicken it with?
Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
I have 3 or 4 fillers I mix depending on the job. Kitty hair and a thickening agent depending on how I would apply it.
Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
I know all will not agree and especially Cricket. I hate piano hinges while they do perform a good function.
They work loose. Like the tackle locker tops and freezer top in the cockpit. Here was my cure.
I went to our favorite west marine store and purchased about 100 plastic washers as thin as possible. (not spacers) Where i could i put a washer where the stainless
and aluminum met for example under the stair treads salt or corrosion kept eating and showing up i put the washers between the two no more problem.
AS FOR THE PIANO HINGE. I had to scratch my head because it was stainless to stainless no need for washers. But the they would not stay stuck, always pulling out or getting loose.
I got out my rivet gun i could not find stainless rivets (probable no such thing) I used pop rivets which were aluminum i put the small thin plastic washer
between hinge and rivet on the gun side next to the stainless. On the other side the rivet got the good glass. I also 5200 between hinge and glass to keep water out. ( a clear maternal like lexan may work better here)
That is what i did and the fish box and tackle lockers are working grate as most know i cut the tackle lockers down we sit on them now still not loose. I think the rivet works well where you can use a lot of them. If one gets loose it is just a matter of a drill bit drill it out and replace. I use the largest rivet i could find
not to have loose motion. I also use the alumni rivets in the top for unwanted screw holes without washer cleaner looking and no corrosion.
Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
Tim you need some tef-gel. Great for as and alum. I coat the treads of as bolts going into alum housings. It's not cheap but I became a dealer for the. So I could buy a dozen tubs and sell them at about $25 each they moved fast.
Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
I also sell their ultimate pump switches and alarms so it was not a one time dealer for a day thing.
http://www.tefgel.com
Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
Best pump switches on the planet. I have four of them.
Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
Pop rivets are very interesting. I have used that trick with hammer rivets when tapcons got loose in concrete. What I need to check is if the piano hinge will full close with all those rivet heads standing slightly proud on the face of the hinge.
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Re: Screws all stripped and backing gone
The correct size rivets are 5/32" and there is plenty of room for the protruding heads. Some of the less stripped (tighter) holes in the fiberglass need to be drilled with a 5/32" bit and then you get a nice tight fit with the rivet blank. There are stainless available but only in large expensive lots so I went with aluminum. When I do the rest of them I might go with some thin plastic spacers and/or dielectric grease to prevent galvanic corrosion. The itial fit is very tight. We will see if this approach holds up to the rigors of use but there is not much lost because they can be drilled out and then I would be right back looking into internal repair/backing for screws. If it works it saved a lot of repair work. I will reinstall tomorrow and see what we have.
Attachment 23597
Thanks for the suggestions.
George