Foam and steel.The only 2 materials I know of in hatt stringers.
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Foam and steel.The only 2 materials I know of in hatt stringers.
Not clear on the "foam and steel" remark. The foam in and around the Hatt stringers was there as a "form" for the shaping of the stringers. After the resin set up, the foam stayed around for the ride, but served no other post-production purpose, AFAIK.
The long beds sitting on the stringers in my Hatt seem to be very heavy aluminum. The engine mounts, on those beds, are steel, I will admit.
As to the above, earlier remarks about smaller older Hatts with handy owners- that would be me! "If the women can't find you handsome, they better find you handy!" (ok, Red Green)
Love the red green quote.
Inside the stringers in the engine beds are steel runners that the bolts from the aluminum stringer caps screw into.
If you undo the bolts the aluminum caps come off.
Ok, gotta ask. What's up with the galvanic corrosion factor, when bolting the Aluminum Cap to the Steel beds with steel bolts. I have a 1972 and you would think that boats this age would have some form of galvanic corrosion between these two metals, unless some type non-metallic washer limited the steel bolt contact with the aluminum stringer cap.
Responses?
"That Hatteras smell" clearly provide some sort of barrier coat protection between the dissimilar metals. :p
This is in direct response to spartonboats1 call for responses re galvanic corrosion between and the alum engine rails. Not an issue. I repowered my 1975 31' EC in 2010 to 8.1L Crudaders and had to remove the engine rails for mods. The original bolts were indeed carbon steel with steel washers. I assume they were galvanised, but in 2010 they were just rust color. All bolts were in good shape and were removed without breakage. There was no evidence of pitting in the rails. I believe it is "area ratio" that makes this combo work, along with the fact that these rails are not immersed, after all. "Area ratio" here is the key. All those alum work boats have winches etc bolted with steel. Stainless is used so it stays pretty, but galvanised will last years without the rust. I used stainless on reinstall and gave the rails a nice paint job (bare from factory). They are very pretty now!l
Great update and thanks. Yes, the galvanized fastener may well be better, due to the effect of the galvanizing "capturing" some of the galvanic action, plus, as you mention, the area ratio factor.
Interestingly, SS is only rust resistance in the presence of air. The air maintains the oxide surface. When in an anaerobic environment, the SS oxide surface dissipates and they are subject to rust. Sail-boaters know this, as their SS fittings will snap after time, at the interface between two SS fittings. This is where they wear out, since the oxide wears away (I think I am 50% right on that).
It's my understanding that in a damp environment, SS is less hospitable to aluminum. Plain steel is friendlier to aluminum than SS.
"Hot dipped" galvanized steel holds up very well around saltwater. Electroplated or drum rolled zinc fasteners do not last. The trick is a freshwater washdown to remove any salt and, zinc is self healing. Painting can cause crevice corrosion. Use Never-Seez Mariners Choice when making contact with any other metals including washers and nuts. The problem nowadays is finding quality hot dipped galvanized products.