Re: Windlass, which formula?
You are very correct and onboard ocean going vessels (of any size) the hoisting capacity of an anchor windlass is calculated to be able to lift the anchor and 3 shackles (270 feet) of chain in vertical direction off the seabed.
Often times people try to pull their boat towards the anchor and rip the anchor out of the mud using windlass and they eventually wreck it hence I believe makers recommending oversizing it.
As you said rightly, once the boat is anchored, the chain is supposed to be secured to a cleat, a guillotine stopper or a snubber line and not against the windlass.When you want to leave, you use the engine to bring the bow vertically above the anchor and heave only the slack. The moment the windlass motor starts to labour (even a little bit) you should stop, secure the chain and if needed use engine to free the anchor off the seabed or bring the bow vertically above the anchor. The chain should ideally always be in "up-down" direction.
People wanting the convenience of controlling the windlass from the flybridge and no clue in which direction the chain is leading or how much weight there is on the chain, are most likely to wreck their windlasses.
Re: Windlass, which formula?
So you vote that I should get a windlass that is just over the 3-4 times weight of the rode?
Re: Windlass, which formula?
First of all good luck with a 45 lbs anchor on a 53... that's way too small
In the real world, when it s blowing, will you really leave the helm to go cleat the rode to relieve pressure on the windlass by clearing the chain? Not that easy...
Does anyone know the taring of the original galley maid windlases?
Re: Windlass, which formula?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pascal
First of all good luck with a 45 lbs anchor on a 53... that's way too small In the real world, when it s blowing, will you really leave the helm to go cleat the rode to relieve pressure on the windlass by clearing the chain? Not that easy...Does anyone know the taring of the original galley maid windlases?
The ideal (pull up only) that came with the boat is a 1000w only! I believe maximum pull of 1000lbs. The CQR 45lb is properly rated for a 53 ft vessel.
Re: Windlass, which formula?
Beware of published anchor ratings... if you dont anchor much it s fine but if you anchor out quite a bit a 45 pounder is way too small especially in soft mud. I ve seen too many boats with "rated" anchors dragging or having issue setting... once i get to the vround tackle after the repower is done on mine, i m replacing the 60 lbs davis (delta look alike) with a 110 Bruce. The drop and forget a out it kind of... :)
Thanks for the info on the galley maid pull. I may keep mine with a dedicated 32v windlass bank instead of replacing with a 24v windlass.
Re: Windlass, which formula?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Gusshr
So you vote that I should get a windlass that is just over the 3-4 times weight of the rode?
Yes, in my books, that is more than enough with practices you are following which are correct. Some members however feel you should "bring your bow down" with significantly heavier anchor and more powerful windlass.
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Re: Windlass, which formula?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pascal
Beware of published anchor ratings... if you dont anchor much it s fine but if you anchor out quite a bit a 45 pounder is way too small especially in soft mud. I ve seen too many boats with "rated" anchors dragging or having issue setting... once i get to the vround tackle after the repower is done on mine, i m replacing the 60 lbs davis (delta look alike) with a 110 Bruce. The drop and forget a out it kind of... :)
Thanks for the info on the galley maid pull. I may keep mine with a dedicated 32v windlass bank instead of replacing with a 24v windlass.
Thanks for the opinion. Adding a second anchor is on my bucket list. Looking in the rode compartment, I see a huge Ideal (which works fine) tucked behind cable master blocking the way to the Windlass (pretty bad access). I am attaching pictures for my boat's tip. The starboard side of the rode compartment is for the rode and the port side is for the electric cable.
Since my pulpit is for a single anchor, I am rethinking that I need to add the automatic windlass to fit to the through deck that exist now, install an anchor roller on the rail to the starboard of the current pulpit to hold the second anchor, and split the rode compartment so it would accommodate two rodes.
What do you think?Attachment 25306
Re: Windlass, which formula?
It is not my fault that pictures are rotated 90 degrees!!!
2 Attachment(s)
Re: Windlass, which formula?