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I am trying to remove my GMaid windlas, got all the capsans off plus 1 c clip.6 nuts underneath. Tryed to tap out a bushing around main 1 1/2 in. shaft from above but gearbok did not move. now shaft will not turn. Galley Maid teck said to pound it out using a length of pipe but Im not sure what ring to pound on. Does anyone have any ideas? Stewart
If you are trying to remove the gearbox only, you can drop it off in the anchor locker without removing the above deck gear. If you need to remove the top of the gearbox and the deckplate you use a pipe thats just a bit bigger than than the OD of the main shaft but smaller than the decklplate and drive the puppy thru. PB Blaster the hell out of it for a few days first. The top plate of the gear box is cast iron which has a collar on it so that it goes up between the main (capstan) shaft and the deckplate and it usually is rusted up tight. I believe that GM will email you the exploded view of your windlass if you ask............................................... ..Pat
Pat I was able to move the bronze bushing that is on main shaft 1/4 in down,but then the main shaft would not turn,On the deck plate there is an inner soft iron ring,then the bronze bush then the bronze shaft . What do I try to move down ? Thanks Stewart
You should remove everything, bushings, spacers etc.,then when you have nothing but shaft ,deckplate and a 1/4" rust area between them you bang the rusty area down toward the bottom of the boat with the aforementioned pipe. Mine had different bushings and washers in it than the GM exploded view showed also. Evidently someone fit an ideal capstan to the GM windlass on my boat..............................Pat
Get the biggest hammer you can find with a long handle. Even then I had to beat the h*** out of it to break it loose. I really felt like I might damage the boat since I had to swing that big hammer so hard. You dont need to remove anything except the long carriage bolts and the capstan (or capstan and gypsy depending on your comfiguration). I ended up welding a plate on top of a piece of 2" pipe to pound on.
Oh BTW, dont forget to leave at least one nut on the end of one of those bolts so you dont drop the whole thing when it breaks free.
Be sure that the nut is flush with the top of the shaft, or you will damage your threads - trust me on this. I finally had to apply heat to free mine enough to remove it.
I used a 1 1/4" ID galvanized pipe 12" long with a reducer on one end to knock mine out. If you want it I can send it to you as I have no use for it now. I have had mine out a couple of times now and it comes out easy without banging at it. You should have someone checking below to see when it is free. I did it myself and discovered I was banging on it even after it was free but hanging on the bolts. If you want the pipe sent me an email and I will get it off to you. Ron beckytek@msn.com
Here's the deal on this - been there, done this one... :)
Make SURE you leave a nut on the end of one of the bolts! You do NOT want this assembly to come completely apart in an uncontrolled manner.
Make SURE you got all the other parts off - There is C-ring on top of a washer
Once you have that apart you should have the deck plate with a lip on it, and there should be a clear delineation between that and the actual gearbox bore. On the inside of THAT is an O-ring.
You must bear on the metal outside of the O-ring and inside of the deck plate. An inch and a half piece of pipe will work. Make it long enough to clear the top of the exposed shaft and put a pipe cap on top of it so you have something nice and flat to beat on.
Soak the interface with PB Blaster at least overnight.
Place you pipe and get a BIG maul. A little 2lb will not do it. A 6lb will but you are going to have to hit it HARD. If you have someone who trusts you to hold the pipe in alignment that's good - but if you hit them its going to be BAD. An alternative is to shim the pipe so its solidly in the right place.
Hit it several times, then look carefully to see if the interface has moved. It will break free and move JUST A TINY BIT at first. Keep at it but once it starts moving pay attention so that you hit the correct location.
Beware that if you damage the edge where the O-ring rides you're screwed and water will get into the gearbox in the future as that seal is what keeps it out, so you have to make sure you don't hit it with the pipe "across" the edge.
Thanks for all the advice, have 2 in. pipe big hammer, waiting for a volunteer hold shimmed pipe. Safety nuts in place Ill let you know Stewart.
Stewart, You could have split the gearbox open in the anchor locker, if it's like mine ,without removing the top portion and seperating it from the deckplate.
While its out make VERY SURE there is no problem with the core up there.
Hatteras did not properly bed all of these at the factory. Guess how I know this?