Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Westfield 11
If you are going to use aircraft stripper in you engine room or bilges, be sure you have lots of ventilation. Methylene Chloride is deadly in surprisingly low concentrations.
Thanks for the advice. Will do. I also got a fresh respirator.
Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
Are you using ospho? How long do you let it dry before painting over it? Is your order ospho, primer then paint?
Care to share what primers and paints you used? (apologies if I missed it in the thread)
Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rustybucket
Are you using ospho? How long do you let it dry before painting over it? Is your order ospho, primer then paint?
Care to share what primers and paints you used? (apologies if I missed it in the thread)
Strip, wash, ospho overnight, wash and rapid dry, white etching primer, paint with Johnson-Evinrude engine white because that's the color I inherited. BTW, ospho has some fumes. Tempting to use spray bottle; paint it on.
Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
Quote:
Originally Posted by
racclarkson@gmail.com
Strip, wash, ospho overnight, wash and rapid dry, white etching primer, paint with Johnson-Evinrude engine white because that's the color I inherited. BTW, ospho has some fumes. Tempting to use spray bottle; paint it on.
What type of brush you use for the ospho? Dispose after each use or save it somehow?
My situation is a little different that yours. Overall the engines and paint are in really good shape, but I do have some rust spots here and there I try to stay on top of, and of course, the exhaust manifold peel areas.
I'm just trying to get a good process in line for treating and painting the rust spots as they appear.
So my process may look something like this
Wash/wipe area
ospho overnight
primer or straight to paint?
Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rustybucket
What type of brush you use for the ospho? Dispose after each use or save it somehow?My situation is a little different that yours. Overall the engines and paint are in really good shape, but I do have some rust spots here and there I try to stay on top of, and of course, the exhaust manifold peel areas.I'm just trying to get a good process in line for treating and painting the rust spots as they appear.So my process may look something like thisWash/wipe areaospho overnightprimer or straight to paint?
Wash off the ospho if you’re going to paint. I keep a small container of ospho and just leave a throw away brush in it. I’m always finding a small spot, nut or bolt to dab. I don’t bother to prime small spots. The cleaned ospho surface is sufficiently etched to grab paint.
Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
When I was teaching Airframe and Powerplant students our rule was: primers stick to prepped metal and paint sticks to primer. We were mostly painting aluminum or composites, but cast iron should be much the same. Paint also sticks to paint, but that’s not what you’ll be doing.
Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Westfield 11
When I was teaching Airframe and Powerplant students our rule was: primers stick to prepped metal and paint sticks to primer. We were mostly painting aluminum or composites, but cast iron should be much the same. Paint also sticks to paint, but that’s not what you’ll be doing.
I definitely prime aluminum. Can come off in sheets if not.
Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
I have a surface prep question on coolant hose connections at the freshwater pump, heat exchanger tanks etc. Can anyone recommend the best way to handle the surfaces that directly contact the hoses such as on the freshwater pump? I had a lot of corrosion on these surfaces previously and it just seems hard to manage. I cleaned up these surfaces pretty well, but i am not sure what the ideal surface coat would be. I have some PPG phosphate pre-coating, but i am not sure what would be the ideal way to prevent corrosion and rust underneath the hose mounting surfaces. I do know that I tried powder coating and that was a losing battle with steel coolant parts.
Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
I don't think its good to run steel fittings on fresh or salt water pumps I would use bronze fittings.
Bob
Re: Of Shiny Engine Rooms and Wax Job Advice
Quote:
Originally Posted by
BOATER BOB
I don't think its good to run steel fittings on fresh or salt water pumps I would use bronze fittings.
Bob
I agree, but the entire closed circuit system is steel/iron on most engines. Not much i can do about that. :)