I'm tired just reading those instructions, never mind actually starting that job!
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I'm tired just reading those instructions, never mind actually starting that job!
Egads! I hope you cut and paste that! Excellent advice going straight into the "Hatt Attack Pictures and Stuff" file.
Captned
78 46 CON
A little single malt, an old Hat and 26 year old memories - writing this was a cake walk. Following the procedure was a little harder.
You should have started an "I Can't take the strain" post of your own during this process.. My goodness. This is really good, step by step advice for sure..
When we worked this procedure to refinish Loose Change's brightwork there were damn few PCs, let alone and internet with forums like this.
My experience with refinishing of wood in 1978 Hatteras Yachtfish.
My wood was dull and dark on the boat, and I tried several things like wiping down, cleaning but it was never looked very good. I was visiting the Lauderdale boat show and went on a 1974 Hatteras Sportfish. I was amazed at the wood. It was brilliant, soft finish, not light in color but the real Formosa teak wood showed through. There was a lady who was sitting on the boat for the broker and she turned out to be the person who did the wood refinish job on the boat for the owner. Her recipe was clean the wood with denatured alcohol using a green 3M pad. Scrub with pad and plenty of alcohol. Wipe the area then with clean rags with alcohol until there is no residue on rag. She told me that this was the most important part was the prep work of cleaning. After allowing the wood to dry she use Jel'd- Poly-Kote for the finish.
Before I started this job I purchased a can of Jel'd- Poly-Kote and did the back of one of the closet doors. It came out beautiful and so the project began.
If you have any discolored areas on any of the teak use a liquid stain that will match the color. Do not use stain/varnish, use just the stain for color. I had a few areas that water had leaked in that had caused the wood to turn white. I could not believe all the gunk that came off of the walls as we cleaned the wood. The previous owner, I was the third owner of the boat had used furniture oil to try to make the wood look good, it never looked good. Any way we scrubbed all of the Formosa teak, and it really started to look clean. The scrubbing was the difficult part.
After the cleaning we started with the product Jel-Kote satin finish that the lady had told us about. You wipe it on and then wife it off. I used a sponge applicator that had cloth around it for the application and then followed it with cheese clothe to wipe it down. I did two coats, she suggested three, I got tired, there is a lot of wood on the boat. I pulled up all base boards and quarter round and did them separately.
The final work was spectacular, the wood took on a soft sheen that glowed. I did the refinish nine years ago and the wood still looks great today. I use only a damp cloth to wipe down the wood for clean up. The amazing thing is that in areas that receive wear (stair case going into galley} I can just wipe it down with alcohol on a rag, let it dry and reapply a couple of coats of Jel-Kote and it looks great again. The new finish blends perfectly with the old.
This process does not lighten the wood but restores it to its orginal nutmeg color. I keep my boat in Fort Lauderdale if you would like to contact me to see it. I will try to answer any questions you might have.
Product is
Jel'd Poly Kote
Wood-Kote Products
Portland, Orgeon 97211
woodkote.com
I guess I should have mentioned that our Hat has a mahogany (Honduran I think) interior - not teak.
I just finished sanding/ varnishing the "walkdown" area of our boat from the cockpit to the saloon.. And it really looks good....
So was then thinking about doing the entire saloon.
Hey, it sounds easy... Then I did a "search" and found this site...
So after reading the posts by BertB and DCMY#92 I might have to rethink it....
On the Tight Spot I used the Totally Awesome product that Big Bill talked about, keeping plety of water sprayed on the wood while cleaning. I then applied three coats of Minwax satin poly, steelwool (3m pads) after each coat. After cleaning after the final steelwooling I used synthetic car wax. I am really happy with the results, looks like furniture finish. I tried carnuba and other car waxes but had problems with the white residue in the grain of the wood but the synthetic leaves no visible residue.
Todd
Good stuff!