Pull the gauges, clean the rods, make sure the floats are free and rods are straight. I trust mine 100% after doing that. It’s easy work.
Printable View
Pull the gauges, clean the rods, make sure the floats are free and rods are straight. I trust mine 100% after doing that. It’s easy work.
Is there a particular knack (or tool) for removing the gauges?
It s a little tricky to calibrate a dip stick on the harts because of the shape of the tanks buts it's doable while
Filling.
I always run a a fuel log in a spreadsheet on my phone. With Electronic engines or flow meters it s easier but you can do it once you know your burn at various RPM on mechanical engines. You can even enter your GPS odometer and get NMPG numbers.
You are right. With the Hart you need to make a tank chart.
Run one tank out then switch to the other tank. Fill the empty tank and stop every 5 or 10 gallons and get a reading all the way up to full. Then you have a tank chart. Repeat for the other tank. You'll know exactly where it runs out.
The other option to copy someone else's chart for the same model boat. But it may not be 100% accurate on where it runs out.
I can check on socket size in the next couple of days. They make an irrigation socket for $30 that will do the job. Otherwise it’s a $125 investment. With a big bar mine spun right out. Like most things, once you put your own eyes on the mechanics of it you will trust it. Paying someone else to do it won’t really help your confidence as much.
F or scanner wrench.
Just backing up previous posters. Pulled the sticky gauges, cleaned the rods and have been accurate for 7 years.
Luckily my prop nuts that I have a spanner for were the same size. I think 2 1/2". Required a bar on it to get the gauges out.
Tanks on mine have parallel sides and gauges reach to bottom so very accurate.