Newbie looking for 52-58 MY

Gentlemen,
I have read a great many of the knowledgeable posts and have learned quite a lot. Thank you for investing in the forum. My plans are to purchase and gradually (4 yrs) move full time on a boat. Quality of construction and seaworthyness lead me to Hatteras.

I have no prior boating experience, but hey, everyone starts somewhere.

I would like to request your guidance.

One question I have regards insurance. With no prior experience, what must I do to have a chance at being underwritten? I understand coverage is required for slip rental.

Question 2: it looks like their is about a 100k spread between an updated boat and one where maintenance has been deferred. Whereas engine life on the dd''s appears to vary so greatly, in your opinion is it better to buy a run out set, drop the 60k and start with fresh motors?

Question 3: practicality of a stand up engine room vs the 52MY. I AM 6'4" and not a light weight. The thought of cramming myself into a 4' space to service the engines cause's me to break out into a cold sweat. So I thought the 53'-58' would provide at least head room. Okay, here''s the question - since the 52 has plenty of living space, would it be better to save the money on purchase and just pay the yard to perform the servides.

Thanks in advance.
Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chasemmc

Gentlemen,
I have read a great many of the knowledgeable posts and have learned quite a lot. Thank you for investing in the forum. My plans are to purchase and gradually (4 yrs) move full time on a boat. Quality of construction and seaworthyness lead me to Hatteras.

I have no prior boating experience, but hey, everyone starts somewhere.

I would like to request your guidance.

One question I have regards insurance. With no prior experience, what must I do to have a chance at being underwritten? I understand coverage is required for slip rental.

Question 2: it looks like their is about a 100k spread between an updated boat and one where maintenance has been deferred. Whereas engine life on the dd''s appears to vary so greatly, in your opinion is it better to buy a run out set, drop the 60k and start with fresh motors?

Question 3: practicality of a stand up engine room vs the 52MY. I AM 6'4" and not a light weight. The thought of cramming myself into a 4' space to service the engines cause's me to break out into a cold sweat. So I thought the 53'-58' would provide at least head room. Okay, here''s the question - since the 52 has plenty of living space, would it be better to save the money on purchase and just pay the yard to perform the servides.

Thanks in advance.
Mark

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My 2 cents:
1) Boat US underwrites these older boats via a quality survey.

2) Don't let the engine hours determine your decision outside of the price of the particular vessel you're willing to spend. Factor that detail into your offer. The Detroits are all serviceable, parts and knowledge readily available. Engine overall condition and maintenance, however, are a good litmus for all of the things you might not see during your review. Engage the help of a very good surveyor to help you identify the list of priorities and to ultimately craft the document that will serve to obtain your insurance. Don't cut corners in choosing or involving a surveyor.

3) The older you get, the more important that ER space becomes, due to physical limitations, eye sight, etc. Don't count on a yard being there to provide the service that you need, as they may well also be limited to what they can see and proactively do for you. If you have the knowledge and experience, you'll want the boat laid out in a manner that you can see and digest the issues in advance of the repair team, even if your preference is to hire someone else to do the work. You'll want to be able to step in and review the condition of hoses, gaskets, bilge water, filters, etc on your own, for your own piece of mind, and your budget will appreciate anything that you can manage to handle yourself.

With regards to your comments on Hatteras and seaworthiness, Hatt built an absolutely terrific boat in the 60's, 70's, and 80's (assuming this is the range where you are looking), but if you're planning to cruise offshore to any extent, and you're shopping a motor yacht, you'll want stabilizers as boats tend to be tall while providing living space. Tall leads to a snappiness in open water roll, so you'll want to temper that snap with stabilizers. The alternative is the Convertibles which manage roll via speed and are quite stable under all conditions when coupled with forward progress.

Finally, as you look, learn, and shop, ask questions to this forum. There is an incredible collection of experience and knowledge here on all shapes and sizes of the Hatt family.

Welcome to the HOF. WE have a good bunch of folks here who try to help in many ways.

I'll toss in some thoughts for you as you go forward. And before I start, if you are looking for liveaboard comfort, you'll get more for a given length in a motor yacht than a convertible. On the other hand, if you contemplate being off shore in rough weather, you will want the stability of a convertible.

Most insurance companies will require you to have some experience or have a captain on board when underway until you get that experience. Take some boating courses and join a boating organization that fosters safety. USPS and USCGA.

Don't get tempted by a fixer upper to save a few bucks. It will cost more in time, aggravation and $$ in the long run.

Detroit engines are pretty tough, but those that are at the high end of the HP/displacement range will not last as long. Most are rebuildable 'in-frame' for much less than a repower.

Look up Genesis' 30 second compression test on this site. It can give you a quick, low cost indication of the health of an old engine.

Many of our boats have some design flaws that you want to understand as you look at boats. The most expensive to fix are associated with rotten cores in decks. Buy or borrow a moisture meter and learn how to locate these. There has been a lot written here on the topic.

Engine room head room is good to have. 6'4" would be nice, but one of our ancient mariners here is taller than you and gets around in the 5'10" headroom between the engines of his 48MY. I'm closer to 6' and manage as well, but at my even more advanced age, I rely more and more on mechanics for everything but the routine.

Good Luck
Bobk

Get out there and look at these boats. Once you have been on a few of the different models, you will know which you like best. After that, concentrate on the model that fits your needs. From there, find the one that is in the best overall condition. Remember, interior redecorating is the cheapest thing. Don't let the Admiral fall in love with a boat just because it has the right color scheme. Bringing the mechanicals up to speed or fixing rotten coring are the most expensive.

Thanks fellas for responding.
I have worn the page numbers off Dave Pascoe''s books, and outside of being a little jaded due to the lifetime spent in the industry, found them to be a good primer. His opinions are what led me to dump the "value" boats in favor of proven quality.

I'm pretty good with my hands, but never have rebuilt a motor. So, the interior can be redone to the wife's sensibilities, by yours truly, but the mechanical need to go to the pros.

Any opinions on the deck core issue between the 53, 56, 58? Any model better than the other?

The farthest I plan on venturing is the carribean. Any differences in seaworthiness between the models?

I believe that professional training is always a good investment. Can u all recommend a school that will train on the new to me boat?

I assume spring is the busy time for boat purchases, what is slow time? Better before end of year, tax time, layup time?

I read the 30sec test from Genesis, very helpful. Is 60K the right number for a major on a pair of 8v92ti's including new turbos, pumps, injectors, heat exchangers, etc. Can u recommend a good engine man that I could open a dialog with? Same for the surveyor.

Thanks again for your thoughts
Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chasemmc

Thanks fellas for responding.
I have worn the page numbers off Dave Pascoe''s books, and outside of being a little jaded due to the lifetime spent in the industry, found them to be a good primer. His opinions are what led me to dump the "value" boats in favor of proven quality.

I'm pretty good with my hands, but never have rebuilt a motor. So, the interior can be redone to the wife's sensibilities, by yours truly, but the mechanical need to go to the pros.

Any opinions on the deck core issue between the 53, 56, 58? Any model better than the other?

The farthest I plan on venturing is the carribean. Any differences in seaworthiness between the models?

I believe that professional training is always a good investment. Can u all recommend a school that will train on the new to me boat?

I assume spring is the busy time for boat purchases, what is slow time? Better before end of year, tax time, layup time?

I read the 30sec test from Genesis, very helpful. Is 60K the right number for a major on a pair of 8v92ti's including new turbos, pumps, injectors, heat exchangers, etc. Can u recommend a good engine man that I could open a dialog with? Same for the surveyor.

Thanks again for your thoughts
Mark

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My best effort in order of your notes:
-Quality and value are inevitably linked. Hatts of vintage are both quality and value.

-Mechanical to the pro's is one thing, but access to the engines to proactively recognize items before they become issues is key. You'll want to be able to get in and see, check, monitor. Bones before beauty.

-Take advantage of the effort to update finishes to update systems hidden by those finishes.

-Coring is evident in Hatts throughout time. Coring itself isn't a concern unless allowed to become exposed due to new penetrations, deck hardware, poor maintenance, etc. Ask the questions about more specific models and years as you learn and shop, and those here will help you compare and understand. My 53c, for instance, only has coring in the foredeck and salon roof/bridge sole. Older convertible models had coring in the transom as well.

-Caribbean is a big area, lots of very open waters and changing weather. Be prepared.

-Seasons vary depending on location. Same with schools. Where are you shopping, where are you focused on being based and spending time? Same applies to surveyors and mechanics...

Been on three 52 tri and one 53my. One 52 listed for 170 and sold for 135. Interior trashed and 600hr 8v92's had an engine room that screamed 'no one cares'. Another 52 tri had fresh motors and an immaculate ER, listed for 299. But that is when I decided that mobility would preclude me taking care of them properly. The 53my was a project but the layout worked.

Really looking for a boat where owner loved and took care of it and wants it to go to a new owner who will do the same. I would think these would be first identified by its marina mates before they go on yachtworld. My budget is between 200-250k. Is this realistic?

IMHO, 53 MY's are very rolly boats. I would want one with a good, perhaps even oversized stabilizer system if you are headed to the Caribbean.

The hull and engine surveyors you choose will be influenced by it's location. Find THE boat first, then the surveyors.

The coring issues are common to all the Hatts AFAIK. It comes down to preventative maintenance. The chain pipe and windlass are the common points of water intrusion into the core of the fore deck. A knowledgeable owner would correct this before it started, or shortly thereafter. Same things for the forward windows. Water gets in and rots the core below it and the adjacent decks. The moisture meter will tell the story in these areas. But also search under cores, soft cores etc.

Look also at the aft spray rails. Many are mahogany and if abused, get water behind them and they start to rot, as well as let water into the boat. Replacing them with fiberglass rails gets expensive.

There are a whole lot of 53MY's in this world. Be choosey and one will come your way.

Bobk
Chateau de Mer
1981Series I MY

Hi Chasemmc,

I, like you have developed an interest in the Hatteras's and I am looking at the 53 MY as well as the 58 Yacht Fisherman. Marine surveyor David Pascoe has had an influence on me as well!

You asked about taking a course (or 2 or 3 or more!) as a beginner. As it was wisely pointed out in this discussion, you should get comfortable and really know your way around your boat, especially in the ER. I would suggest going to a diesel engine repair and maintenance course for some hands on education. At least you will have a better working knowledge and build some confidence. I went to one of these in Annapolis, MD about 20 years ago. It was taught over 2 weekends and we took apart and rebuilt a small 4 stroke diesel engine. Even as a "blow boater"for many years I took my engines very seriously and developed a real fondness for taking good care of them. I would also suggest going to www.boatdiesel.com and for $25 a year, they are an incredible resource for learning and finding out answers to almost any question you can come up with.

This Hatteras owners forum is an amazing resource as well. I am pretty certain that our next boat will be a Hatteras so I expect to be lurking around here for a long while.

Jonathan

if either of ya'll are looking for a repowered 53, i know of one that is pretty close to me. PM me if interested