Rebuilding seacocks

I was cleaning out my strainers today, and found my stbd seacock very stiff and difficult to operate. As a matter of fact, I don't think that I ever completely closed it. It's always been somewhat stiffer than the port, but never this tough to operate. To make matters worse, the A/C inlet hose runs above the valve and of course the limited space in front of the genny requires that I be a bit of a contortionist (a 50 yr old 215lb contortionist with a bad back at that). I even managed to bruise a rib while pulling the lever back to the open position once I finished the job.

So, it looks like I'll be servicing the valves when I next haul, and could use some advice on the process. Does the entire thru-hull need to be removed, or can the seacock be separated from the thru-hull in the boat? What is the best lubricant? Are there seals that need to be replaced?

The application is a 1979 43C with 6v92TA's making 435hp.
Thanks.
Bob

As a cheater bar, my buddy who was a mechanic in the Navy for 20 years said they used to take round aluminum tube and make a T shape with it. This way you could use a cheater bar pushed over the seacock handle to give you some extra leverage, but the T shape was so that if the space was restricted, you would use it on a 90 degree angle to hte handle. I make one and it is wounderufl. I hang it just next to the engine room door.

I have found that if I soak the valve ball and shafts with WD40 or good penetrant, of course while the boat is on the hard, and exercise the valve, that it will free up to a degree. Also, while in the water try soaking the shafts and what you can of the ball valve, while the valve is closed and the strainer cover is pulled...worth a try...over the years, I have found that a little lube goes a long way.

The procedure I was taught a long time ago is also described here and ensures seacocks work well and turn freely:

http://www.geocities.com/earlylight1...cockMaint.html

A little leverage would certainly help until I can get her pulled - probably at the end of the season at this point. Problem is that the cock is closed when the handle faces forward. There is only about an inch or less of clearance between the end of the handle and the beam behind the stbd engine. Also, when in the closed postion, there is only about 2" between the handle and the inside of the hull. I could get away with a 90* lever, but not a TEE.

You may have to create something different than mine, but if you can, Go for it. Somtimes it is worth it to extend your season a few weeks.

The procedure is right on the money, but not all of the valves are made that way. I shoot liquid Teflon spray (West sells it at the usual higher-than-anyone price) or CorrosionX in through the drain plug hole when she is hauled out, also up through the valve with it in the open position, from under the boat. Then work it back and forth a few times. That serves fine once it turns easily. My sea valves are the Conbraco stainless-ball type.

I think you will have to service the ones you have, though. It sounds like they have been stuck for a while. If I read the protocol right, you can withdraw the tapered plug and leave the body of the valve in the boat mounted where it is. I suppose you could remove the valve entirely, but I don't think you have to. The big issue is the tapered bore where the plug fits in- corrosion has probably occurred and it can't turn freely. As he shows, you have to re-lap it to get it to work smoothly. And as you said, the problem is getting in there. Sometimes I think by the time you can afford a nice boat, you are no longer limber enough to work in the engine room yourself. :mad: