Next: Washer Dryer

The old stacker was dead. It was sliced and diced and recycled last fall. In its place now comes a combi unit which leaves a LOT of space available above it in the closet. Here I will build a tool storage. Right now all the tools are in tubs in the VIP closet which is not handy, and it's a lot of weight on the Port (low) side. (Guessing 2-300 pounds) So moving that to SB and adding the 150lb appliance should help the list to Port. After that I will add (more) lead as needed. But first the installation.

Scratching my head a little on the power supply. On the old (original?) unit there were two whites and two blacks. Whites, which I assume are neutrals I have not found the other end yet, are 146/148 Blacks were 147/149 The latter corresponds to the connections on the 220V breaker labeled "Washer Dryer".

But wouldn't the neutrals there indicate that the WD was in fact two 110V appliances stacked.......? So why the 220V breaker instead of two separate 110 breakers? The way it is would indicate that, unlike every thing else, the neutrals do not run through a breaker.....

Your two blacks make up the 230Vac required.
You may still need the whites, and separate green.

I was working a new laundry bug a few years ago.
Seemed new fancy washer did not work. After a team effort to get it on board down a stair case and into a hall hole, all were hesitant to take it back out.
I was invited to the party.
Even though it was a 230Vac Bosch washer, It's computer used 115Vac and needed the white wire.
Luckily, a sub panel was close to run a new neutral lead from.

The reason I found the answer to this Bosch bug so fast; I never could get my oven and stove lights to work on our boat many years ago. One night after hearing about it enough, I tore it all apart.
Since the factory install, the white wire was never connected to the 230Vac Stove/oven connect. The 115Vac lights never had a chance to work for almost 30 years.

That label may say 230Vac, Sometimes it still may need 115Vac to work. Keep or update your HV service outlet to the later or required spec (4 wire);

Typically washers are 120v and dryers 240v. Ideally there should be two hots coming out of the dual pole 240v breaker for the dryer and a hot and neutral coming out of a single pole 120v breaker for the washer

What either Hatteras or someone along was may have done is use one of the two lines feeding the dryer to power the washer. No idea why they have used two neutral unless they used two duplex wires (black and white) and only used one of the white for neutral. Or triplex with ground

Only way to know will be to use a multimeter and check voltage at these wires.

Thanks. It's definitely all original as it has the Hatteras number labels on it. Two neutrals and two hots which go to a 220V breaker. I'll make sure to read the instructions for the new machine......

On edit:

After peeling a few layers off the onion it appears someone may in fact have messed with it. There are two grounds further back that were cut off.

The new unit calls for a simple 110VAC/15A circuit.

There may have to be some reconfiguring.

It is not two neutral and two hots. One of the white wire is actually a ground wire. Hatteras used black/white cables so had no green wire. If you look at diagrams, you can see some white wires going to the ground bar in the main panel. Best to use a voltmeter to find out which white wire is which. I found that out when i replaced the fuse panel with a breaker panel and wondered at this odd arrangement. I taped the white ground wire with green tape to eliminate the confusion.

Yeah, it should be 2 hots, 1 neutral and 1 ground.

I edited my post above. When I pulled back the tape I also found two greens that had been cut off. So it's black, white and green in grey plastic sheathing, times two. As suggested I now think that the washer/dryer that was in there was a replacement and that the installer didn't care about grounding things.

Still scratching my head on the original installation.....

So this is resolved. The new combo washer dryer calls for 110V15A. That's it. Since I pulled the DW that 110V/15A power supply was capped under the counter top. One hole and I led it down to the generator room, where I added 10' of cable, across to SB, up into the dinette seat and into the washer closet. Outlet on the wall, breaker re-labeled and the old 220V supply coiled and taped. Done.