Re: New Outback 3232 thread
Providing you are comfortable, and understand the correct wire sizing. It's about a 5 on the 1 to 10 scale, not including the programming, which I am not familiar with. As for the crimps on the heavy cables carefully measure the distance need, then take the stuff to a battery shop, most of the have the necessary crimping tool. Another alternative, is let me know what wire size you will be using, I have a large set of crimpers I can lend you to the job.
Re: New Outback 3232 thread
For me the most difficult part was breaking out the AC circuits and creating the AC panels for the circuits that I wanted to power by inverter. I got a couple of guys, a supervisor and a workman from Hatteras' electrical shop to help me as I was in New Bern to help me with that, especially the wire routing. Since it is by-the-hour work, a cost estimate is useless since boats and owners vary so much in their demands. If I were to do it again knowing what I know now, it would have been more expensive because I would have powered some additional circuits that would have required some time to reroute to the inverter panel. Whatever you do, get someone who knows what they are doing. There are a couple places in Annapolis with good reputations. Marine Electric Systems and Peter Kennedy come to mind , there is another I forget right now, though all these are second hand, no direct experience. Edit: a little web search reminded me of the third, who I considered doing my installation when i still had the boat in Baltimore: J. Gordon. Ask around or interview them and look at some of their work.
The DC side is the easy part. I don't subscribe to Sky's approach of setting it up like a generator; we can debate that later.
If you don't have one, get a copy of Nigel Calder's "Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual" and read the first few chapters, and the chapters on inverters. Invaluable and much clearer than any advice you will get from us. It will help you understand, plan and install your system.
It sounds like you are going to use one of these purely as a charger for the start banks? Seems like one of the Sentrys would have been just fine for that purpose.
As for the cables if a local battery shop or NAPA isn't set up, you can get high quality custom cables made up by GenuineDealz, which is a great place to get all your cabling and connectors.
Re: New Outback 3232 thread
Hope you will continue to report your progress. Are you going to run two inverters?
I've had good experience with Genuinedealz. Good quality, work, turnaround and price.
regards,
Re: New Outback 3232 thread
The Outback manual has a lot of info on multiple unit stacking and installation which should be very helpful. I agree with the degree of difficulty being around 5-6 but totally depending on your comfort with elec circuits/installation. It's not what I'd suggest as a first attempt at DIY electrical work! :)
I also agree with the suggestion re large cables - Years ago I tried the "hammer operated" crimpers you can buy at any hardware store and they are really not suitable for the job. The last time I was at West Marine, they had a real crimper available to use when you bought cable/fittings. The staff would not make the crimps for fear of lawsuits but you could use it and DIY. NOTE - I am NOT suggesting you get anything from WM though they will match prices so in theory you SHOULD be able to get it there for the same price you can get it for anywhere else.
As noted, the most difficult technical part is setting up the AC circuits that the inverter(s) will power. You don't just wire the hot breaker to the inverter; the neutral for the circuit also has to be connected to the inverter's neutral buss. SO most likely you will be adding an additional neutral buss inside the breaker panel for that purpose. You will end up with a fair number of breakers that will be in their normal position in the panel but will not be connected to the standard hot buss bar in the panel. You will set up separate bars for the inverter-powered breakers. It sounds more complicated than it is - I tried to find some pics of the interior of my panel showing the separate neutral buss and the breaker buss but I don't have any on this laptop. I have to go into town but if I get a chance later I'll take some pics of the panel and post them.
Re: New Outback 3232 thread
Yes. I'm going to pull the 2 Sentry's and two inverters - and replace them with 2 Outbacks.
The wiring should be pretty straight forward since I won't be changing any components that are being powered (lights, nav computers/monitors, fridge and a few other electronics/items). So basically I'll be hooking all of those up to the inverter side of the Outback. The charger side obviously goes to the batteries and the input from shore power/gensets is my incoming power.
Calder's Electrical Manual is an excellent reference. Have had it for years!
Bottom line, I'm guessing it'll take me a day to wire it all up. Toughest part will be pulling new battery cables and feeding the communication wires to the pilothouse. I'm sure there will be a surprise or two (what project doesn't have a few of those!), but I don't think it'll be that difficult - especially given the current set-up.
Re: New Outback 3232 thread
Also, thanks for all the advice everyone! Mike, I would appreciate seeing some pictures if you happen upon them. Honestly, I haven't spent any time analyzing how my current inverter is wired up to the fuse panel. I would assume this wiring can stay in place, but if that's not the case, I'll probably bring in an electrician to either help or do the job. That's going to add more time to the project than I can afford.
Re: New Outback 3232 thread
Programming the Outback is pretty straightforward. The installation/operation manual takes it through step-by-step. You can use the defaults, but I suggest calling the battery manufacturer and getting their recommended charge settings. I did this for my Rolls batts and have been very pleased with the results, ie very little water usage and quick recharge.
Re: New Outback 3232 thread
Also, be aware of the amp draw of the Outback while charging. Since most Hatt OEM chargers were 240v, it wasn't much of an issue. But, the Outback is pulling 120v off of one leg and it can cause issues at full charge amperage when combined with other loads. You may have to watch your ammeters for a while and switch legs if it causes you to draw too much.
Re: New Outback 3232 thread
Sky, that's one of the main reasons I'm going this direction.
I continue to cook my Rolls battery banks and really don't have an easy way to monitor power consumption.
I'm not on the boat often enough to assure they don't cook entirely down either.
Yeah, I know I can put the Sentry's on a timer. It's been done many times. But I'm also trying to keep Kismet as state of the art as possible. Well, if you consider 4-71's state of the art!