P Engine runs for 10 seconds and then dies

[akintosyali]

Now my P engine is acting up. (I feel like I can not get a break in the last 2 weeks!)

Once it starts, it runs for 10 seconds then it dies. It does not start again unless I wait 5-10 minutes.

I pulled the flame arrester, pulled on the choke, and I see gas going into the carb. What else could be the issue??

[Passages]

Fouled fuel filter.

(Hey, this makes 1000 posts for Passages)

[Boatsb]

Passages wants to be a bird. Ok only kidding. Also look at the spark. Is it still getting spark? maybe a condenser or a bad coil.

[Mako440]

You sure are having a lot of "fun" aren't you! :)

Sounds like a fuel issue.

Try this:

1) Remove the coil wire
2) Remove the hose from the fuel pump at the carburetor. Place that line in a container of your choosing, not Styrofoam!
3) Crank the motor over and see if fuel is getting into the container. If there is no fuel in the container, locate and remove the fuel filter. Hook up a splice where the fuel filter used to be. You will need a connector for this.
4) Crank the motor. If still no fuel, the fuel pump is bad. If there is fuel in the container, then the filter was clogged. Replace either the filter or pump. If you have to replace the pump, replace the filter as well.

If during the first step, you have fuel in the container, the filter isn't clogged and the pump is working. Proceed to the steps below. If fuel comes out it will be a strong pulse. Make sure your container is big enough and the line is secured in it. We don't want to wash down the engine room with gas!

If I remember correctly, Carter carburetors, and I think that is what you have, had a small filter in the fuel line where it connects to the carburetor. Pull that out and if it is clogged, remove it, hook everything back up and you should be OK.

I do not know if your fuel pick up in the tank has a "sock" on it. I know on the Mako, it is just a tube that goes into the tank.

If there is a sock (filter) on the scavenging tube in the tank, it may have collapsed. Someone who knows more about that than I could tell you.

If you do all of the above and the motor still doesn't run, there may be trash in the needle and seats of the carburetor and the gas slowly fills up the bowls and that is why it only runs for a few seconds. I am not that familiar with Carter/Eldebrock carburetors. I prefer Holley.

You can also pull out your dip stick and smell the oil on it. If it smells like gas, the fuel pump is bad. Replace the fuel pump and change the oil.

Good luck!

Added with edit: Before doing all of the above, make sure the petcock for the fuel line is in the on position. I know it is a silly thing, but, it has happened before!

[MikeP]

Just one comment re removing the coil wire - it may have been covered but I didn't notice it, and I apologize if I'm repeating something already covered.
By "coil wire" I assume we are talking about the secondary wire that goes to the distributor's center terminal.

if you are cranking the engine (other than with the intent to start it) with the ign start switch you should not remove the coil wire from the coil. Instead, disconnect that wire from the center distributor terminal and ground that end to the eng block - just lay it there. Removing the coil wire from the coil and engaging the ign system (start switch) can damage the coil internally and/or cause carbon tracking on the the coil terminal.

[Mako440]

Just one comment re removing the coil wire - it may have been covered but I didn't notice it, and I apologize if I'm repeating something already covered.
By "coil wire" I assume we are talking about the secondary wire that goes to the distributor's center terminal.

if you are cranking the engine (other than with the intent to start it) with the ign start switch you should not remove the coil wire from the coil. Instead, disconnect that wire from the center distributor terminal and ground that end to the eng block - just lay it there. Removing the coil wire from the coil and engaging the ign system (start switch) can damage the coil internally and/or cause carbon tracking on the the coil terminal.


I was talking about removing the coil wire from the distributor.

For the task being discussed here, I felt it was the safest and easiest suggestion. From the posts I have read regarding the engine issues that the owner is having, I didn't want to suggest to take a screwdriver and jump across the solenoid with the key off. I also didn't think he had the proper tool, a remote starter button attached to the solenoid, to complete this task.

I would hazard to guess that the ignition system(s) on both motors are in need of either service or an upgrade. If points are still being used, that is just an antiquated system and should be replaced, unless, this is a complete and accurate show type restoration where those things are important.

If reliability is important, I would have updated the ignition system right off the bat. In fact, the Johnson 200 began to give me ignition problems. It was traced to the power pack. Since the motor is original from 1991, I changed the power pack, stator which was leaking some type of goo, the timing base as well as the plugs and wires. It was around six hundred in parts but now, I have a nearly new ignition system and don't have to worry about it any longer.

When I was a mechanic, 3 out of 5 cars that came in, according to the Sun Engine Analyzer, needed plug wires. The 3 out of the five cars were older and the wires were still original. I always recommended a complete tune up for those vehicles. The ones that didn't get the full tune up always came back with another problem that was ignition related, and eventually, everything got replaced. It would have been cheaper and easier to do it all in one shot.