Bitter End anchor

[Chasemmc]

Finally getting around to attaching a nylon rope to bitter end of our anchor chain. Looking in the locker, don't see anything solid to tie it off to. Suggestions? Also, what do i measure to determine the size of the existing chain?

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Finally getting around to attaching a nylon rope to bitter end of our anchor chain. Looking in the locker, don't see anything solid to tie it off to. Suggestions? Also, what do i measure to determine the size of the existing chain?If you go to the Maxwell Windlass site, they have specs on chain.

[Chasemmc]

Thanks Robert. What do guys tie off the bitter to?

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Thanks Robert. What do guys tie off the bitter to?This is what I have--steel L embedded in locker deck. In fact, have one on each side of locker.

34464

[Chasemmc]

Okay, I'll pull the chain from the locker and see if those plates are under the pile. Thx again

[osprey]

Chain is measure by the thickness of the links, the length of the link describes what kind of chain it is.

P

[Chasemmc]

Okay, I'll put a caliper on it and report back. Thx

[CTdave]

After learning the hard way multiple times, I finally went to West Marine and ordered the chain and nylon line for my Maxwell. They are very specific and extremely finicky if it's not the exact spec for the windlass model. West supplied it all including the splice which also has to be under a certain diameter.
As far as the bracket in the anchor locker, I'm certain you have it buried your chain. Most boats have them there from when they pull the hull from the mold

[Chasemmc]

I have an Ideal MODEL BHW. Verticle windlass. Says they were built specifically for Hatteras thick decks Does this require a special size chain?

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

After learning the hard way multiple times, I finally went to West Marine and ordered the chain and nylon line for my Maxwell. They are very specific and extremely finicky if it's not the exact spec for the windlass model. West supplied it all including the splice which also has to be under a certain diameter.As far as the bracket in the anchor locker, I'm certain you have it buried your chain. Most boats have them there from when they pull the hull from the moldYou can always get it at West if you don’t care about cost. Or, you can select the exact chain from Maxwell’s website, for example, and buy it for maybe half price. The splice isn’t an issue as long as you keep it tight and put a taper on it.

[SKYCHENEY]

I have an Ideal MODEL BHW. Verticle windlass. Says they were built specifically for Hatteras thick decks Does this require a special size chain?

The wildcat on the Ideal or Galleymaid will have the size stamped on it. You can get different size wildcats for different chain.

[Bob Bradley]

On mine, which is all chain, I don't tie it off. It used to be attached to a shackle that was simply screwed into the keel/stem, but that proved to be a bad idea the day my buddy kept his foot on the "down" button too long and I left 400' of chain on the bottom of Long Island Sound. When we finally recovered it with a grapnel, I wanted something failsafe so I bored a hole through a short piece of telephone pole cross arm, slid the chain through the hole, and bolted it back to itself.

[kelpy]

You should always secure the end of the chain to the boat with a piece of line, preferably some type of aramid line such as Amsteel. You never know when the day will come when you have to dump the chain in an emergency.

Keep a sharp knife stowed in the forward cabin so that when day ever comes, you will have something to cut it with.

[oscarvan]

You never know when the day will come when you have to dump the chain in an emergency.

I did just that and it was, as always, ready to go..stopped the motion...saved the day.

[Pascal]

There should be a padbeye on the floor of the locker.
ALWAYS use some line spliced in the chain to attach it to the eye. The line will slip against the gipsy and prevent damage to the windlass. The line allows you to cut the rose loose in an emergency

If you don’t have a pad eye you can tie a big knot at the end of the line so it can’t go thru

[Scarlett]

As Kelpy said but us a piece long enough that if you let out all the chain the line comes out on deck, makes it easier to cut in an emergency if it is on deck. Also mark the chain in a way that you know when the end is about to come on deck. Came within about 30 seconds of having to do this in Fiji when a small cruise ship was dragging down on us with no one on board, luckily a guy got on board at the last second and got it started and moved out of the way. Had a bit of extra laundry to do that day. John

[kingsley_oasis]

Battery powered grinder with 41/2" cutoff wheel will make the chain disappear over the bow roller PDQ.

[Westfield 11]

Unless it’s raining or high seas are spraying seawater everywhere or you need to stop and recharge batteries.

[kingsley_oasis]

Unless it’s raining or high seas are spraying seawater everywhere or you need to stop and recharge batteries.
Why get wet, when you can lean into chain locker from fwd cabin to do the deed. Milwaukee 18v could cut my 3/8" chain 20 times, and still have enough juice to cut anchor up as well. Oh and it cuts nylon rode, not so sure about knife on hi test chain.
Must confess that knife does better at filleting fish.

[CTdave]

On mine, which is all chain, I don't tie it off. It used to be attached to a shackle that was simply screwed into the keel/stem, but that proved to be a bad idea the day my buddy kept his foot on the "down" button too long and I left 400' of chain on the bottom of Long Island Sound. When we finally recovered it with a grapnel, I wanted something failsafe so I bored a hole through a short piece of telephone pole cross arm, slid the chain through the hole, and bolted it back to itself.

Ouch, glad you recovered it! I was close to Oyster Bay for Dolan's fireworks four years ago when a nautical nitwit caught/cut my anchor line. He must have had spurs because we didn't feel a thing. I noticed we were drifting but hard as we tried the following weekend, we never could find my stainless plow anchor. $$$$

[Walter P]

Ouch, glad you recovered it! I was close to Oyster Bay for Dolan's fireworks four years ago when a nautical nitwit caught/cut my anchor line. He must have had spurs because we didn't feel a thing. I noticed we were drifting but hard as we tried the following weekend, we never could find my stainless plow anchor. $$$$

One more really good reason to use all chain.....

Walt

[Chasemmc]

Put a caliper of the chain link. Here are the measurements:
Overall Length - 1-7/8"
Overall width - 1-3/8"
Diameter of chain - 3/8"

So this would be what kind of chain?
It fits snugly into the wildcat.

What type and size of line should I use to tie it off to the boat?

While your still rolling your eyes at these simpleton questions....... There is a large nut at the top of the capstan. Is this the nut I loosen to free fall the anchor?

Robert, should the chain be prepared in any way to accept the paint? Perhaps some type of acid to clean it up, or is this a waste of time and I should just plan on touching it up when needed?

Thanks in advance

[Pascal]

Looks like 3/8 BBB to me

https://www.1st-chainsupply.com/chain/gbbb_windlass_chain.htm

[Chasemmc]

In the world of chains, is this stuff any good?

What size line braided for bitter end?

For my 56', how much chain should I have? I know its a function of weight, at 60 tons, what do you think? It looks like it has the original anchor that came with the boat from the factory.

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

In the world of chains, is this stuff any good?

What size line braided for bitter end?

For my 56', how much chain should I have? I know its a function of weight, at 60 tons, what do you think? It looks like it has the original anchor that came with the boat from the factory.Not knowing conditions under which you might anchor, I'd get a drum of 200' as the minimum.

ACCO is a division of Peerless. Both are made in USA. I didn't see it, but make sure it's HDG.

I just cleaned my chain before painting. The acid eats the galvanized finish. The windlass, other chain and the water with what's in it will all have their way with the paint.

Just guessing on rode, but I'd say if chain is 3/8" the rode could be 1/2". Windlass manufacturer is final authority.

[Pascal]

The line i spliced at the end looks like 3/4

I like 250’ of chain. Just replaced the chain on my 53 which uses 1/4” BBB. A little thin but isn’t want to replace the windlass gipsy. Because 1/4” BBB is hard to find I could only get 175’ so I spliced another 150’ of line. We rarely anchor in more than 15’ of water anyway

I rarely get paint to last more than a few months but we anchor a lot.

[Chasemmc]

Is the nut on top of the windless to release chain?

[SKYCHENEY]

Is the nut on top of the windless to release chain?

Yes, that puts tension on the clutch plates. Loosen it and the anchor will free fall.

[Chasemmc]

I know some of my questions are rather rudimentary. Thanks for your help

[Chasemmc]

The project is progressing.
Pulled all 250' of chain out of the locker. It's in pretty good shape, not much rust and the most of the galvanizing appears intact. I have released the shackle from the pad eye and cleaned up the locker. Going to paint with Bilgekote, cause if Robert ever was to inspect the work I don't want a disapproving glare.

While the paint dries, its time to order the rode to attach to the bitter end. Looks like if I could find an already braided line into the thimble, that would save some time. Plan is to attach thimble to the shackle and then into the pad eye. I'll braid the line to the anchor chain, tapering the end so as not to jamb in the wildcat.

I have seen setups on line, but seem to come with 200' of line. I was thinking of only putting 20' in the locker, as it is going to be used for emergency cut loose only.

So the question now is, what type of line (amsteel seems like overkill as if it is deployed I'll be cutting it in an emergency). Anyone have a good source for short lengths? Was planning on 5/8" three strand. Is that thick enough?

As always the advice is greatly appreciated

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

The project is progressing.Pulled all 250' of chain out of the locker. It's in pretty good shape, not much rust and the most of the galvanizing appears intact. I have released the shackle from the pad eye and cleaned up the locker. Going to paint with Bilgekote, cause if Robert ever was to inspect the work I don't want a disapproving glare.While the paint dries, its time to order the rode to attach to the bitter end. Looks like if I could find an already braided line into the thimble, that would save some time. Plan is to attach thimble to the shackle and then into the pad eye. I'll braid the line to the anchor chain, tapering the end so as not to jamb in the wildcat.I have seen setups on line, but seem to come with 200' of line. I was thinking of only putting 20' in the locker, as it is going to be used for emergency cut loose only.So the question now is, what type of line (amsteel seems like overkill as if it is deployed I'll be cutting it in an emergency). Anyone have a good source for short lengths? Was planning on 5/8" three strand. Is that thick enough?As always the advice is greatly appreciatedIf you pass inspection, I’ll cut out a length of 3/4” for you.