Blisters finally “cured”?

[Traveler 45C]

What do you all think of these?

http://www.hotvac.com/?orig=gelp

http://www.hotvac.com/testimonial/default.aspx

[captainwjm]

Green Turtle Bay, Ky applied this process to my boat when owned by previous owner [in 2002]; I purchased in 2003 and survey was very good as to results, and I have had no problems since then.

[Traveler 45C]

It would be good to know in a few years if the process prevented further blistering. Please let us know.

[Beckytek]

If this process cures the blisters forever why do they still put a barrier coat on?

[saltshaker]

I would be careful with this process. If done right it can be ok. If not you could damage the hull. A couple of years ago there was a mid '90's 46 Hatt that had enough hull damage from this process to be written off as a total loss by the insurance co. I saw pics of the boat and she looked great. Similar 46's were listed in the mid 400K range. This one sold for around 200K at auction. The salvor claimed the boat was being updated, engines were majored, new generator new electronics, interior etc. Bottom was wet and the owner didn't want to wait for the bottom to dry so they used the hotvac process. The claim was that the hull was damaged beyond reasonable repair due to excessive heat.

[mike]

call Smith & Company for their proven epoxy system 1-510-237-6842 1-800-234-0330. 3 to 4 weeks of air drying and you can begin the process. Once the hull is epoxy barrier sealed from the outside the remaining moisture will outgas from inside the boat.

[SKYCHENEY]

From what I've read, on a Hatteras it's the skin-out mat that causes the problem. So, if you peel the bottom and remove the mat, then why do you need to heat it up? Your problem is already solved, no heat should be necessary because the inner layers of glass are not normally a problem on a Hatt. Am I missing something?

[Genesis]

No, you're keeping the many thousands of dollars you would otherwise be missing :D

[Traveler 45C]

Hahaha!

So I take it its not a good idea?

[Genesis]

I wouldn't do it.

My 45C had a "blister repair" done (allegedly a gel peel) by Norseman several years before I bought it (I have the receipt in my permanent record file.) She's still got boat pox - but not nearly as bad as most Hatts.

I am going to do..... exactly NOTHING about it. As far as I'm concerned the guy who owned her before I did spent a shizload of money for nothing of value.

Why? Because there's no structural issue, and a 20 year old hull has had happen to it whatever is going to happen. So the bottom has pimples. And? Do you look at the bottom? Only when you're diving, right?

With some hulls I'd be worried, but not with these. Ever see how thick the hull laminate is on the bottom? I've pulled a couple of transducers and was simply AMAZED at how much solid fiberglass was between me and the water. I like it that way...... keeps the water where it belongs! :D

[OVERSPRAY]

I just got off the phone with my resin supplier, and was talking with him about a different issue concerning fire retardent in resin for fabricating exhaust tubes and elbows. He reminded me that general purpose polyester resin loses its composition and begins to soften and break down at temperatures of 185 degrees or higher. So unless your boat was constructed entirely of heat resistant resin which we all know wasn't, I wouldn't put a 200 degree heat pad on my hull for anything. If the resin hasn't cured properly in 20 years it probably won't under any means of force curing at this point. I agree with "genesis" Don't waste the $$ Run the boat and be happy