Bottom job cost........

[northshoreone]

I bought a 1996 70 Sport Deck last year and knew it needed all those years of bottom paint removed to start fresh. You could see patch's coming off from previous layers that were not adhering any more. The boat has no blistering issues so no repairs needed there. What should blasting the bottom and repainting it cost. Should it be primed with a several coats of barrier coat paint or not? They are talking about several coats of barrier paint, sand blasting and several coats of abating bottom paint totaling $17k!!!!!!! Seemed a bit much to me! Looking for some help with what is really necessary and what isn't....with a realistic cost est.!
Thanks for any and all impute on the subject......

[utspak]

My suggestion is if it has ablative paint it still is good and use it for a season and let it wear off naturally. Have the bottom dived on every 3 or 4 month depending where you are at it and the layers will just disappear. Then next year reassess.

Stuart

[Boatsb]

Sounds like Florida prices. Depending on how bad the buildup is. It could be 3-4 days or more or just blasting. Then the patching and barrier coat before paint is a wildcard because you can't tell what's underneath. Paint for a 70 is probably $3k alone if its the good stuff. It sounds lime it could be reasonable if there is a lot of work. What shape are the props, shafts, cutlass bearings and other underwater gear is?

It's a 70 foot boat with a deep hull and a keel. Its a lot of boat and everything is big on it.

[motoryacht lover]

Back in 2010 I had my 54' done for $6,700. The hull had a buildup of hard paint with some ablative over that. The price included, sandblasting, 3 coats of Interprotect 2000 barrier coat, and 2 coats of Micron CSC. It has been 2 years since this was done and so far so good. Owl Creek Boatworks in Alva, FL did the work. They are just north of Fort Myers and I would definetly work with them again.

[dsharp]

I dont know that I would use sand to blast it unless they are using a #4 or 5 and keeping it moving to just get the paint off. They could soda blast it and put 2 coats of bottom paint without the barrier coat. It's hard to have an opinion about the price without knowing the scope of the job and the area that you're in. You may have environmental/disposal expenses that can affect the cost. Talk to some other yards in the area if you think you're being charged too much and get a few detailed bids.

[northshoreone]

Thanks for the feedback so far....one of my questions is..... is the barrier coat necessary once the old paint is removed down to the gelcoat? I have been told that as long as we are not dealing with blisters that barrier paint is not necessary and two coats of botttom paint and three around the waterline is good. ........Fact or fiction?

[saltshaker]

Thanks for the feedback so far....one of my questions is..... is the barrier coat necessary once the old paint is removed down to the gelcoat? I have been told that as long as we are not dealing with blisters that barrier paint is not necessary and two coats of botttom paint and three around the waterline is good. ........Fact or fiction?
It's all up to you to do what you feel comfortable with. If you sand blast, I wouldn't put her back in the water without the barrier coat. The sand can make the gelcoat porous and you can end up with problems down the road. If you soda blast and the bottom is truly clean and no blisters or open gelcoat, then you don't need the barrier coat. Personally, I would put a barrier coat on. I've done this twice on other boats and both times the bottom was fine and I still put on a barrier coat. I prefer the peace of mind knowing the bottom was sealed up. As far as cost, I paid around $5500 just to paint the bottom on my 65C. That was on a clean bottom that didn't need any extra prep. I would expect the cost to media blast and barrier coat alone to be double that. A few years ago I priced a bottom job for a 58C. $300 per ft was the going rate for a complete bottom job with blister repair. If you end up not needing any blister repair, that number should be a bit lower. Keep in mind your cost will be on the higher side. Most yards that can handle a boat that size won't be low priced or DIY. Where are you having the work done?

[dsharp]

What he said. If the gel coat is not damaged or blistering you could get by with bottom paint alone. Adding an extra coat from the waterline to the chine will definitely help. Thats why I wouldn't recommend sand blasting. It can do more harm than good if your not careful. You can cut all the gel coat off if you stay in one place too long. For that matter you can cut through the hull if you stay in one place long enough. If you are planning on keeping the boat for a while it might be worth it to apply a barrier coat before the blisters start. Hard to say without seeing the bottom. We owned a yard for many years south of Houston and blisters weren't that common. Couldn't say about other areas of the country though.

[northshoreone]

It's all up to you to do what you feel comfortable with. If you sand blast, I wouldn't put her back in the water without the barrier coat. The sand can make the gelcoat porous and you can end up with problems down the road. If you soda blast and the bottom is truly clean and no blisters or open gelcoat, then you don't need the barrier coat. Personally, I would put a barrier coat on. I've done this twice on other boats and both times the bottom was fine and I still put on a barrier coat. I prefer the peace of mind knowing the bottom was sealed up. As far as cost, I paid around $5500 just to paint the bottom on my 65C. That was on a clean bottom that didn't need any extra prep. I would expect the cost to media blast and barrier coat alone to be double that. A few years ago I priced a bottom job for a 58C. $300 per ft was the going rate for a complete bottom job with blister repair. If you end up not needing any blister repair, that number should be a bit lower. Keep in mind your cost will be on the higher side. Most yards that can handle a boat that size won't be low priced or DIY. Where are you having the work done?

Diversified Yacht Service....Fort Myers FL.
Next question...am I correct in having the sixteen plus years of old bottom paint removed? If there are no blistering issues should I leave well enough alone and just repaint........
Thanks
Dean

[SeaEric]

Unless you own a racing sailboat....I never understand why a build up of bottom paint is necessarily a bad thing. I attend lots and lots of survey haulouts in my line of work. Typically when there is a big paint layer, there are no blisters. In my mind, perhaps the bottom paint is doing it's job then. I'd leave it alone.

[jim rosenthal]

I would use soda blasting, not sand. The goal is to just get the bottom paint completely off and not damage either of the gelcoat layers. Once the soda blasting is done, you will know what you have. If you have a few blisters, for example, but don't need a comprehensive blister job, you can fill and fair them at that point. Or if the bottom is clean and the gelcoat in good shape, you can just start rolling on your bottom paint.

Has anyone here heard of using a hard bottom paint for the first two coats and THEN ablative? Just curious. I've seen this done a few times but I don't know the rationale for it.

[northshoreone]

I would use soda blasting, not sand. The goal is to just get the bottom paint completely off and not damage either of the gelcoat layers. Once the soda blasting is done, you will know what you have. If you have a few blisters, for example, but don't need a comprehensive blister job, you can fill and fair them at that point. Or if the bottom is clean and the gelcoat in good shape, you can just start rolling on your bottom paint.

Has anyone here heard of using a hard bottom paint for the first two coats and THEN ablative? Just curious. I've seen this done a few times but I don't know the rationale for it.

That is what they are suggesting but in talking with others some say that doing ablative over hard is a waste. I talked with another captain that puts only hard on and not ablative as the boat sits more than runs.......everyone seams to have a diff. Idea about what's best!...... He also swears by Prop Speed on the running gear......anyone want to chime in on that topic as long as were at it???

[TROUBLE]

Speaking of prop speed, I used the Pettit Underwater Metal Kit on my shafts, struts and props last year. I was very satisfied with the results. The prior year with nothing on the running gear I had to barnacle scrape multiple times in order to get on a plane. No problem last year and when the boat was hauled all the gear was clean. Definitly going to apply it again this year.
Art

[saltshaker]

That is what they are suggesting but in talking with others some say that doing ablative over hard is a waste. I talked with another captain that puts only hard on and not ablative as the boat sits more than runs.......everyone seams to have a diff. Idea about what's best!...... He also swears by Prop Speed on the running gear......anyone want to chime in on that topic as long as were at it???
You mentioned that there were adhesion problems with older coats. If the bottom is shedding paint and the bottom is uneven, then you should strip off the old paint and start fresh. If the bottom is in good shape and just needs repainting, then just paint it. Getting rid of the old paint does help with efficiency but I doubt you'll notice it on a MY.

[bobk]

Speaking of prop speed, I used the Pettit Underwater Metal Kit on my shafts, struts and props last year. I was very satisfied with the results. The prior year with nothing on the running gear I had to barnacle scrape multiple times in order to get on a plane. No problem last year and when the boat was hauled all the gear was clean. Definitly going to apply it again this year.
Art

Art, would the paint not last two years? And if not, do you have to go all the way to bare metal each year? Many of us only pull our boats for painting every three years.

Bobk

[rwappleton]

What I am trying to find out is what the rate per hour should be for grinding and fairing blisters?

A really well known shop that specializes in Corvettes (fiberglass) is charging me 45 bucks an hour to refinish and paint mine. This is also the going rate for most all paint work these days.

I was just quoted almost twice that in Charleston.

I did not want to do this but at 90 bucks an hour........I'm worth that.:cool:

[Boatnut]

Does the corvette shop have the moisture meter to verify if the bottom is properly dried to effect a good repair?


If one is paying half the price, how can a full proffessional job be expected? One usually gets what one pays for. Good luck

[Boatsb]

Does the corvette shop have the moisture meter to verify if the bottom is properly dried to effect a good repair?


If one is paying half the price, how can a full proffessional job be expected? One usually gets what one pays for. Good luck


just let them do it and see how well it works. Im sure the corvette guy understands osmositic blisters and the epoxy coatings to prevent them.

Proctologist, neurologist, cardiologist its all the same right?

[saltshaker]

What I am trying to find out is what the rate per hour should be for grinding and fairing blisters?

A really well known shop that specializes in Corvettes (fiberglass) is charging me 45 bucks an hour to refinish and paint mine. This is also the going rate for most all paint work these days.

I was just quoted almost twice that in Charleston.

I did not want to do this but at 90 bucks an hour........I'm worth that.:cool:
I know a guy who owns a body shop. He painted his 48' Pacemaker SF. When he was done the boat looked fantastic. I asked him if he would be interested in painting mine. His reply was, "No, not even for double what we usually charge." He said he was amazed at how much more work it was and how much more difficult it was to prep and work on the boat in the yard.

[TROUBLE]

Art, would the paint not last two years? And if not, do you have to go all the way to bare metal each year? Many of us only pull our boats for painting every three years.

Bobk

After hauling my boat this year i believe the only thing i need to repaint are the props because i am having them tuned.

the shafts, struts and rudders still have all the paint on them.

Art

[bobk]

What I am trying to find out is what the rate per hour should be for grinding and fairing blisters?

A really well known shop that specializes in Corvettes (fiberglass) is charging me 45 bucks an hour to refinish and paint mine. This is also the going rate for most all paint work these days.

I was just quoted almost twice that in Charleston.

I did not want to do this but at 90 bucks an hour........I'm worth that.:cool:

I just spoke with Port St Lucie Marine about some bottom work. Their labor charge is $60/hour. A&J in Port Salerno is $75/hour. Both are reputable and qualified.

Cheers,
Bobk

[rwappleton]

Thanks Bob,

A smart shop for Corvette does use all the same methods because the paint has to look 100 times better and last 20 years in most cases.

All I wanted was a number to compare to. I do not get a warm and fuzzy with the yard I am in.

Russ:cool:

[dsharp]

The grinding and filling is similar.The difference is the price of waterfront property and the travellift to haul the boats out.Just a set of straps would pay for a paint booth. I'm not sure if it's the same in Fla.but the workers comp. rate in Texas used to be the same rate that longshoreman paid. Not sure what genius decided that they were equally dangerous occupations. I hate to say it but $45.00 an hour is 1970's rates. I hope your a young man, holding a grinder over your head all day will toughen you up.:)

[Boatsb]

True the comp cost more for the marine business but thats part of the cost of doing business in the boatyards. also the difference between corvette repairs and blisters is the difference between a face lift and full reconstructive surgery. Its a similar process but they use different materials and are finishing for cosmetics not structure or a water barrier.

[Geoff58yf]

I used to keep our 58YF in Stuart. Now we pay Northern Calif prices. heres a cut and paste of rates from a very popular local SF yard....
Bottom Prep / Cleaning
$86 per hour
Spray Painting
$107 per hour
General Labor
$107 per hour
Forklift w/ Operator
$150 per hour
Crane w/ Operator
$300 per hour
Travel lift w/ Operator
$300 per hour
and the bill in 15min increments!!

[Boatsb]

I used to keep our 58YF in Stuart. Now we pay Northern Calif prices. heres a cut and paste of rates from a very popular local SF yard....
Bottom Prep / Cleaning
$86 per hour
Spray Painting
$107 per hour
General Labor
$107 per hour
Forklift w/ Operator
$150 per hour
Crane w/ Operator
$300 per hour
Travel lift w/ Operator
$300 per hour
and the bill in 15min increments!!


They let you spray paint in California?

[Geoff58yf]

Only in a giant shed. In California now you practically need a permit just to breathe :(

[Boatsb]

Only in a giant shed. In California now you practically need a permit just to breathe :(

I would keep it quiet if you spray in the shed . I've had issues here where the local ordinances don't allow the shed to be vented outside.

[Boatnut]

Has anyone ever seen or heard of a blister on a corvette?

[Avenger]

Ask them how much they want to do the Corvette while it's upside down.